Power supplies provide power to your entire computer. They do this by converting high voltage alternating AC current from the wall to a lower voltage direct current that your computer can use. See our guide to Understanding Power Supplies for more on this subject. To determine how much power you really need, it is best to use a calculator to find a ballpark estimate. As I have previously mentioned regarding power supply efficiency, it is best to have an adequate, but not overabundant supply of power. Once you have your computer rig all set up, you should check the stability of the computer by stressing the computer with a few handy programs. By running such a stress test, the computer will run various calculations and draw the most power.

Stressing the Computer

To see just how stable your computer is, you will need a digital multimeter to measure the voltage of the power supply. Relying on the voltages in the BIOS or other software programs like SpeedFan are great for monitoring temperatures of your CPU, video card, and hard drive but are lousy and greatly inaccurate for measuring the true voltage.

Prime 95

To stress the CPU and all its cores, you will need Prime95. Download it for Windows 32-bit or 64-bit. When it opens, it should default to the “Tortue Test,” but if it does not, go to Advanced > Select Round-Off Checking and then go to Options > Tortue Test. Run the “In-Place Large FFTs” test to stress the CPU the most resulting in the greatest heat and power consumption.

Furmark

Run this program to stress the onboard graphics or video card. This is particularly important if you have one or more dedicated cards because they tend to draw a large amount of energy in addition to the CPU. You can download furmark here. Run the stability test at your native resolution for the greatest stress.

Measuring the Voltage and Interpreting your Results

Female Molex Connector

+12V

While the computer is running the stress tests, find a free molex cable and place the black probe into one of the two middle black connectors (this is the ground). Place the other red probe into the yellow connector (yellow cables are usually always 12V inside the computer). Watch the reading on the multimeter. It should read very close to 12V and be consistent. It should not fluctuate or deviate too far from 12V.

+5V

To measure the +5V rail, now place the red probe in the red connector (red is usually always +5V) and read the voltage from the multimeter. It should likewise remain close to 5V and be consistent.

If the numbers fluctuate and are not around their proper voltages, it is probably time for a new power supply. A new power supply will be better able to handle the large load of energy the CPU and video cards demand. It will also be more efficient.

source: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/46960.aspx

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Computer power supplies are the main source of energy for any desktop computer. Their operating scheme, the meaning of colored wires inside, and the relationship between voltage and current to output power is outlined in this article. How to measure power supply voltages is also demonstrated.

Power Supply Unit Basics

Ever wonder what is happening inside your computer supply? Computers cannot run without a source of energy. They require a proper power unit in order to be fed. Since the first computers, power supplies have been used for feeding every electronic device or circuit inside a computer. But how do these electric generators work and provide electricity to the computers? There’s no magic inside. A power supply simply draws AC (alternating current) voltage from an electrical source and converts it to DC (direct current) voltage.

A computer power supply unit consists of several components inside. There are coils, capacitors, an electronic circuit board to regulate current and of course a fan to cool down the whole unit inside a power supply. Fans are the number one failure reasons for power supplies. It’s true- a $5 fan may cost you more than ten to twenty times that amount when it fails.

Besides these components, several cables should be attached to the circuit board with a specific number of wire sets in distinguishable colors. These sets of wires are used to transmit different voltages to the main board and other devices connected to it. A computer power supply draws 110 volt of electricity from wall outlet which is in the form of AC voltage and converts it to much smaller voltages in DC form.

Today’s modern power supplies are equipped with several safety circuits checking flowing current continuously. If any kind of extreme condition exceeding its power output capacity is detected, the power supply simply shuts itself down and prevents any possible further harm to itself or to the mainboard.

Computer Power Supply Voltages

In a computer mainly three types of DC voltage are required to run. 12 Volts is necessary to feed the mainboard itself as well as any new age graphic cards, 5 Volts is required for the chassis and CPU fan or USB ports, and 3.3 Volts is used for the CPU itself. 12 Volts is also applicable for specific “smart” chassis fans. Thus in broader sense, a computer power supply can convert 110 Volt electrical current (or 220 Volt for the European scheme) to +12V, -12V, +5V, -5V, and +3.3Volt.

The electronic circuit board in a power supply is responsible for forwarding the converted electricity through dedicated cable sets in order to feed the devices inside the computer. With the help of the components cited above, AC voltage is transformed into clean direct current. Nearly half of the work done by a power supply unit is carried out by capacitors inside. They help regulate the smooth, clean currents to precious circuits in your computer.

But be warned. Even if your computer is unplugged, there is still chance of electricity being stored inside your PSU even days after you pulled its plug. That’s what capacitors are used for. They store energy to be used for a continuous work flow.

Power versus Voltage Output

What makes a computer power supply unique and capable of feeding the computer with sufficient energy is simply its capacity to produce power measured in Watts in almost every unit out there. Yes, every power supply has a decent capacity in terms of maximum power they can produce within a certain time period, and this specific capacity often leads to confusion as well.

Let’s make things more clear. Since power means voltage multiplied by current from Electricity 101, computer power supplies can be interpreted as a power source to the extent limited by their capacity to produce maximum Watts per operating cycle. This capacity is regularly misjudged by consumers. (Manufacturers are responsible for this confusion.) Because real capacity can be calculated by adding up all the voltage outputs of every bit of wire set multiplied by maximum current they can produce. This specific capacity reflects the real output power of a power supply, but manufacturers prefer to use a broad numbering format which may lead to false interpretation of real output power.

Power Supply Unit Color Codes

Inside power supplies you see bunch of colored cable sets coming out with different sockets or connectors and different numbers of wires each. Color codes of power supply cables are as follows:

1. Black Wires: Those are used to provide a ground for the current. Every other color should be paired with a black wire.
2. Yellow Wires: This color denotes +12Volt
3. Red Wires: This color denotes +5Volt
4. Blue Wires: -12Volt
5. White:Wires -5Volt
6. Orange Wires: 3.3Volt
7. Green Wires: Control wire to check DC voltage
8. Purple Wires: +5V on standby mode

source: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/58559.aspx

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You can buy a bigger battery. You can install special utilities and software. You can even go into Control Panel and configure all kinds of power settings. But, these 10 Power Saving Tips will give you a lot more time on that same amount of battery juice.

Powerful Tips to Use Less Power

If you use your laptop without plugging in, you know how frustrating it can be to run out of power. The sad fact is that batteries grow weaker over time. Every laptop manufacturer will tell you that batteries are “consumables” meaning that just like toner or ink, they are going to run out of functionality sooner or later. Yet, even fresh new batteries often don’t seem to last as long as they should. Chances are, these 10 tweaks will give you a lot more time on battery power.

Top 10 Power Saving Tips

1. Reduce your screen brightness. Sure, when you are plugged in, you can jack up the brightness all you want, but when you are running off of battery, a brighter screen is a battery drainer. There is more strategy to this than just turning down the brightness. You still have to see your screen, so location selection is important. Choose a spot away from bright windows. In fact, the dimly lit corner will allow you to use the darkest screen setting.

2. Stop Using the CD-ROM. Whether you are running a game or playing movie, keeping that CD spinning at several thousand RPMs takes a lot of juice and sucks the life from your battery. Install everything you will need to use when unplugged to the hard drive, and save your CD based things for when you are plugged in.

3. Bring Along Your iPod. Yes, your laptop has your music collection installed, and yes, Media Monkey is awesome, but playing music burns the juice. Run your music collection off your MP3 player instead and save your battery.

4. Use The Table. Every notice how warm your laptop gets on your lap? That’s because your body is a great insulator, and chances are your body is blocking one or more of the vents needed to cool your laptop. This means that your laptop has to run the fan to stay cool. Put it up on the table, and you’ll get the airflow your laptop was designed for which will minimize the use of the fan and save power.

5. Disconnect Your Accessories. All of those devices connected to your PC are sucking battery life like leaches on an open wound. USB devices are setup to draw power via the USB connection. Unfortunately, they all consider your laptop the equivelent of a wall socket, so they just take all the juice they want without regard to your battery life. The PDA you plugged in an hour ago has been charging the battery, lighting its screen at maximum brightness, and syncing every 15 minutes. Drain, drain, drain.

6. Pick a Cool Spot. Not only does sunlight wash out your screen making you use a brighter setting, it also warms up your laptop faster requiring more running of the fan. A cool spot will let you use a darker monitor setting, and keep that fan off.

7. Turn Off Your Utilities. Ok, you need your resident virus scanner because you never know what might be out there, but you do not need to be running a full hard drive scan when you are unplugged. I don’t care if it is Thursday at 3:00 PM (or whatever your automatic drive scanning is set to.) Likewise, no defragging, no file syncing. If you aren’t running it manually, close it down.

8. Set Your Wireless Power. If you ever have trouble connecting to a wireless network, chances are you jacked up the transmission power of your wireless adapter. That is a good move. But, if you are in the middle of Starbucks and the wireless router you are connecting to is right overhead, you don’t need the higher setting. Lower your transmit power to the lowest setting you can while still maintaining a connection.

9. Save Your High Power Applications. You know what I’m talking about. Those programs that when you run them light up your little hard drive light like a stuck green light at a busy intersection. Digital photography programs are a big culprit, as is anything that renders, compiles, or otherwise nails your system resources to the wall. Keep the use of those programs to a minimum.

10. Plan Ahead. Kirk wouldn’t always need more power from Scotty if he wasn’t always getting stuck in a jam. Make sure your laptop has a full charge before you head out. If you are going to be somewhere for a while, look for a power outlet when choosing your seat and plug in right away so someone doesn’t string their cord across the room to “your” outlet.

source: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/windows-platform/articles/10334.aspx

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Computers are wonderful devices, but they are rather prone to frustrate even the most knowledgeable of users—especially when it comes to battery lifetime. This article outlines some basic care to lengthen charge and lifetime, as well as discussing why your battery isn’t performing as advertised.

How Batteries Live Their Lives

Even the best of batteries has a lifetime, over which it will naturally degrade—at least with current technologies. Most current laptops are made with lithium ion batteries, usually abbreviated Li-Ion. They can typically last between 300-500 charges, and have about 4 to 5 years of shelf life. This is a limitation simply built into the chemistry of the battery: there is no changing this, at least until better technologies develop. A reasonable expectation for your battery is that it will last somewhere between 2 and 4 years.

Of course, this will vary considerably by use—and abuse. You can considerably lengthen the lifespan of your battery by following some basic battery care steps.

Battery Care

Many people simply don’t take good care of their batteries, which can result in poor battery performance which is no one’s fault but their own. To avoid this, here are a few simple tips:

Don’t let your laptop overheat. This means making sure that the fans can properly ventilate at all times, and that you don’t run it on hard surfaces that won’t wick heat away. Even while not running, avoid using your laptop in hot environments—the optimum temperature for laptop batteries is at the freezing point! The cooler the better (but don’t be putting it in the fridge.)

Know Your Charger. There are a lot of different types of chargers out there, all of which require startlingly different care for maximum utility. Most old computer chargers allow a small trickle of charge into the battery of your computer which then trickles out into use for the rest of your computer, as opposed to going directly into your computer’s functions and bypassing the battery. This trickle wears down the battery over time, slowly but surely, just by using it up. Most newer “smart” battery chargers, however, send power when plugged in directly to the computer and bypass the battery, which helps extend battery life somewhat.

Charge Only When Necessary. If you have one of those older batteries, when you do need to charge your battery, make sure that your battery is completely drained before charging. Remember, the lifetime of lithium batteries are determined by a set number of charge cycles, not by the amount that the battery is charged – you want to avoid that trickle charge effect that was mentioned earlier. Smart batteries conveniently avoid this issue, so keep it plugged in when possible.

Power Management Programs. It’s a good idea to get some sort of specific power management program on your computer. While what’s available varies by distro, the more options it has, the better. Linux users can adjust everything microscopically via command line, and also have many open source options available; proprietary distros have default apps, which have limited functionality, but are also open to many freeware programs. Check out what’s out there!

For the nuances of lithium battery care, refer to the manufacturer’s user manual specific to your battery.

If your battery is not lithium, such as NiMH and NiCad, then make sure to look up the optimum care steps that are particular to your type of battery: each of them must be treated differently than lithium batteries.

Longer Charges

But how do you make an individual charge last longer?

Dim The Screen. In most laptops, the LCD screen is the biggest powersap of the whole machine. Dimming the LCD screen may take some getting used to, but it’s the single best way to save on charge. Also, make sure to have options set to dim your screen automatically when idling.

Disable Non-Essential Functions. Bluetooth and wifi are huge powersaps. When not in use, it’s best to have these disabled. If your laptop uses a spinning disk hard drive, then try to cut down on activities that require those deep-memory functions. Don’t run CDs or DVDs except when necessary. Decrease speaker volume. Really, just try to run the most minimalistic operating that you can. Though it might be a pain at first, eventually it will become habit and you’ll see your battery life improving.

Stand By, Sleep & Hibernate. If you’re idling for too long, it’s a good idea to set your computer so that it either goes on stand by, sleep, and/or hibernate. Most laptops have options so that it can do any of the three within various power profiles, so it’s quite customizable.

Misadvertising in the Industry

That being said, it’s not all your fault if the battery doesn’t do as operating. Indeed, there are vast misperceptions that are propagated by the computer industry, specifically as to how long their batteries last.

Companies test battery life under minimum power using conditions: minimum CPU use, no wi-fi, no anything you’re likely to use. Playing video games is going to cut down on battery life significantly, as is surfing the Internet and reading articles on how to extend your battery time. If you practice some of the battery care tips explained above, you will approach the manufacturer’s number, but most users aren’t going to be getting anywhere near it.

source: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/51077.aspx

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One key way to keep your PC in tip top condition is to make regular checks on the power supply unit (PSU). Usually situated in the top of your PC tower and distributing power to all of your PC hardware, the PSU is one vital component you cannot do without.

Ways to Maintain Your PC Power Supply

Getting the most out of your PC means taking care of each component – and the power supply unit (also known as the PSU) is one vital piece of hardware that needs to be kept in full working order so that you can get the best out of your computer.

The PSU is the part of your computer that you connect to the mains electricity supply via the “kettle lead” style cable. It is absolutely vital that the power supply is correctly setup, securely fitted and adequately cooled in order to guarantee the best performance from it, and by extension, your PC.

Maintaining your PSU is relatively easy – it’s mainly a case of keeping the device clean and dust free.

What the PSU Does

A key part of your PC’s hardware, the power supply unit distributes power from the mains around various internal components of your PC. The hard drives, DVD RW drive and floppy drives all get their power from the PSU, as does the motherboard, the CPU and any graphics cards you might have installed.

In order for your PC to correctly receive power, the PSU must be correctly setup for your country or region using the red voltage selector switch.

It’s also worth remembering that the cable you use to connect your PC to the mains electricity outlet on the wall can degrade over time, so make sure you change this cable every 18 months or so.

Cleaning Your PC Power Supply

If you’re carrying out any sort of maintenance on the inside of you PC, you should have a specialist cleaning aerosol air duster. This is basically “air in a can” that comes with a direction nozzle for you to point and squeeze.

These cans are great for clearing dust out of your PC, and can be used on your PSU. It is important however not to point the air into your power supply from outside the PC chassis however – when you switch your PC back on, the dust will just get sucked back into the PSU.

Effectively clean your PSU by disconnecting your PC from the mains, removing the side and lying the chassis on its side with the motherboard closest to your desk or bench. Spray your jet of concentrated air at the internal power supply fan – this will force the dust into the PSU and out of the external fan grille.

For extreme dust that has really caked onto your PSU, you’ll find it is easier to disconnect the power supply cables from the motherboard, drives and other devices, and remove the unit from the chassis. You can then use a vacuum cleaner hose attachment (the sort that doesn’t have a brush) to suck up the heavy duty dust to give your PSU a good clean out.

You can reduce dust build up in your power supply unit by maintaining a clean and healthy working environment, regularly cleaning your desk, vacuuming your floor and using an anti-static duster on your PC, monitor and peripherals.

source: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/57820.aspx



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Like everything else, computer power supply units (PSUs) eventually fail. Identifying the PSU as the problem in a broken computer is not always that easy. We explain how to diagnose and correct power supply problems.

Identifying the Problem

I’m assuming you have some technical knowledge and are competent working on computer electronics, otherwise take your computer to a repair shop. Take note of the Terms and Conditions of this website and the disclaimer on the following page.

The most obvious sign of PSU failiure is that the computer will not switch on. Try a different power lead (the cable connecting the computer to a power outlet), and a different wall socket (directly into the wall, not via an extension or multi socket as these may be defective). If you can’t hear the fan going round at the back of the computer, it’s almost certainly the PSU. If there is a switch on your PSU, make sure it is on. If that isn’t the problem, switch the PSU off, disconnect the power cable, open the case up and unplug and replug the motherboard power connectors. Sometimes they can get dirty or oxidised, and this should renew the connection and gives you a chance for a visual inspection.

Erratic behaviour at startup – multiple beeps, won’t boot every time, frequent crashing – can all be symptoms of a failing PSU, but may also point to other problems such as a defective motherboard or graphics card. Motherboard manufacturers usually supply a lookup chart for the beep codes that might point you in the right direction.

Grinding or squeaking are usually indicative of a worn fan. If it is the fan in the PSU, replace the PSU. I’ve replaced the fans before, but it can be awkward and if the fan hasn’t been cooling, the PSU has been overheating. It will fail soon. Also, the inside of a power supply is a very dangerous place, able to contain high voltages despite having been disconnected for signifcant periods.

If you have and can use a multimeter, you can test the PSU. Disconnect the power supply from the motherboard and drives, etc. To switch it on, you’ll need to briefly short out the power switch terminals. They’re usually the green and any black (ground). The excellent Russian website, pinouts.ru has a guide for the expected voltages at each pin (http://pinouts.ru/Power/atxpower_pinout.shtml). If any pins fail the test, ditch the PSU and buy a new one.

An inexpensive power supply tester is much easier to use for those who aren’t electrically inclined.

Misleading symptoms

Unfortunately, the symptoms may point you in the wrong direction. A game that crashes might be bad software, overheating graphics card, bad memory or…you guessed it…a slowly dying PSU. It may, as suggested earlier, be a faulty motherboard. Sometimes, you just have to change it and see.

If it’s a few years old and you’ve been upgrading your hardware, it is probably under-rated now anyway. Power supplies aren’t terribly expensive, so if you mis-diagnose it isn’t the end of the world.

Replacing the PSU

It’s not usually very difficult to change the power supply. Before opening the computer case you’ll need to disconnect the mains supply – switch the PSU off if it has a switch and pull the power cable out. Disconnect everything else as well – monitor cable, keyboard, mouse – the lot.

Open up the case and carefully unplug all of the power cables from the disk drives, CDs etc. and also the motherboard connectors which are ‘latched’, i.e. you’ll have to depress a small catch to release them (the drive connectors can be a little stiff, but they’re not latched). Note that on some motherboards only the longer connector is used. Check again that everything is disconnected by following the wires that exit the power supply.

Using a phillips screwdriver remove the screws that fix the PSU to the case. When working on PCs, I use a magnetised screwdriver which makes three-handed jobs like this a lot easier. You can magnetise a screwdriver by stroking a strong magnet along the length of the shaft in one direction only. The more strokes you do the stronger the magnetic effect will be. Best to keep it away from your hardrives if you do this. As you undo the last couple of screws you should support the PSU so that it doesn’t fall into the case, potentially damaging the motherboard, RAM etc. With all of the screws removed, carefully lift the PSU away from the case. Be careful not to lose any of the screws inside the case!

Replacement is basically the reverse of the above. While holding the new PSU in place, insert and tighten the screws (the new PSU may have a different number of fixing screws). Reconnect the motherboard connectors ensuring that they are the right way round and that the catch engages. The design of the connector makes it almost impossible to connect the wrong way. Then the connectors for the drives – again they are shaped in such a way that they can only be put in the right way round.

Now close the case, reconnect all the cables and plug in the power lead. Make sure the PSU is switched on if it has a switch. Your computer should now switch on normally. If it doesn’t, first check all of the external connections (monitor etc.). If it still doesn’t work, it is probably the motherboard connection.

Disclaimer of Liability:

With respect to the information in this article, neither the publisher nor the author makes any warranty, express or implied, including the warranties of fitness for a particular purpose, or assumes any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information, apparatus, product or process disclosed, or represents that its use would not infringe privately owned rights.

source: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/33923.aspx

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Differences in voltage and current standards between North America and Europe the focus of this explaination which reveals the circumstances behind the development of Nikola Tesla’s Alternating Current as an alternative to Thomas Edison’s Direct Current.

Thomas Edison and Direct Current

While you might be familiar with your own electrical devices and their requirements, you not might be aware that electrical goods bought in other countries are designed to run on a different voltage.

Electric travel shavers often have a switch to change between 110V and 240V (in conjunction with a mains adaptor), and this difference in voltage harks back to the very early days of mass production and distribution of electricity.

Thomas Edison – inventor of the modern lightbulb – developed the DC (direct current) standard for distributing electricity which produced 110V. Edison’s General Electric company became one of the main suppliers of electricity across the United States, but it soon became clear that the DC system was unsuitable for sending electricity across large power grids.

Nikola Tesla’s Alternating Current

The DC standard was eventually superseded in North America by Nikola Tesla’s AC system – this was a three-phase method which used three alternating currents which were slightly out of phase. Tesla knew that the most efficient frequency for the alternating current was 60Hz, and when combined, variations in the voltage were lost. This system enabled electricity to be distributed over greater distances than DC.

At first utilizing 240V, Tesla eventually compromised to reduce this to 110V in order to maintain the safety of devices designed to use the lower voltage.

Ever since, North America has used devices requiring 110V – however properties are now supplied with 220V, with a handful of appliances (stove, clothes dryer) running on this voltage and everything else on 110V.

A Worldwide Revolution

It was a slightly different story in Europe and the United Kingdom – German power company AEG established a major grip on electrical generation across the continent, while electric companies in the UK mostly matched the AEG standard of 110V AC at 60Hz. This continued until World War II where all across Europe a 220V alternating current at 50Hz was adopted.

In the UK this required an Act of Parliament to nationalise (purchase by the State) the many local electricity companies, and the subsequent standardization of current, voltage and frequency has enabled European companies to buy and sell electricity supplies depending upon demand.

The work of both men considerably changed the way mankind behaves and carries out tasks, and the story of Europe’s adoption of these standards is echoed worldwide.

source: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/60041.aspx

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Intermittent or otherwise bizarre computer problems, or perhaps a computer that won’t turn on at all, may cause you to suspect the power supply. Before you run out and buy a new one, there is a cheap tool that you can use to test the power supply to rule it in or out.

Overview

If you were to think about your computer as a human body, which component do you think would be the heart? Just like our heart supplies blood to the body, the power supply in a computer supplies and controls power to the other components in the computer. If there is a problem with it, the entire system could be effected. Blue Screens, random reboots, dead machines, failed boots, and other intermittent problems can all be linked back to a faltering power supply.

There are ways to test some components in the computer easily enough, but the power supply is a tricky one. If the problem only happens once in awhile, it could take a very long time to figure out. Because of this, there is a special power supply testing tool that we can use that will not only identify problems on the main power connector of the power supply, but on every single one to ensure that it is functioning at 100%.

Multiport Power Supply Testers

Newer, more advanced multi-connector power supply testers have many different sockets on them so that you can test every single cable on the power supply. The one linked above from Newegg.com is only $14 and includes sockets for 20+4 P1, SATA, 4 pin, 6 pin and 8 pin power connectors. A series of lights indicate whether there is a problem or not, as you cycle through the various connectors on the power supply.

Running the Test

In order to use a power supply tester, you might have to remove the power supply from the case first. This involves opening up the case, unscrewing the power supply, unplugging all the connectors, and taking it out.

Hopefully, you can open the case and unhook all the connectors without removing the PSU itself from the case.

Once you have disconnect the PSU, it’s time to test it. Plug the regular power cord into the back of the power supply, as usual. Plug the P1 (20+4 pin) power connector into the designated area on the tester. Plug the power supply into the wall and turn it on (if you have to). If your main connector is functioning, you will see green lights on all voltages and possibly hear a sound (indicators varie by make and model of tester). Leaving the P1 plugged in, test the rest of the connectors in their respective sockets. For the Molex connectors, +12 and +5V should light. For 4/6/8 pins, +12V should be lit. For Floppy, +12 and +5V should be lit. For SATA, +12, +5 and +3.3V should be lit. If there is a problem with the main connector, then you’ll need to purchase a new power supply. If another connector has a problem, check the other identical ones. If you only have one bad connector, just don’t use it. If all of a certain kind have a bad voltage, it’s time to reach into your wallet.

source: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/33877.aspx

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One deals with the obvious answer of computer failure. The other is rooted in planned obsolescence. Learn how these two approaches can be used to determine how long a computer should last.

Computers are made up of many parts made from different manufacturers. Standards, some imposed on the manufacturers by outside entities and some self-imposed, ensure that the parts that are supposed to work together do so. However, without the assistance of a systems integrator, some computers parts just naturally last longer than others do.

Under normal use, a computer’s case could conceivably last many decades. The power supply, however, inherently is a component doomed to failure in the long run. No electrical component can last forever due mainly to the stresses of constant heating and cooling caused by friction from the electricity traveling through its wires, capacitors, and other parts. In fact, next to memory failure, power supplies are the most likely component to go on a computer.

To answer the question of how long a computer should last we must first adopt a paradigm. Are we talking about computer failure or how long the computer remains useful? One could argue that a computer from the late 1970s may not have yet physically failed but that it has failed to be useful juxtaposed to a modern PC. In a sense, the old computer has not “lasted” because it no longer provides its user with an advantage over abandoning it for a more modern computer. Both types of computer longevity are briefly discussed below.

Physical Failure as a Measure of Computer Longevity

Certainly, when a computer ceases to function it is no longer useful to its owner. From the time the computer was first turned on to the day it failed to function properly is a measure of how long the computer lasted. As mentioned above, the modern computer is made up of many parts. The failure of a primary component such as the CPU, memory, motherboard, etc. means the usefulness of the computer has ceased. Failure of a minor component such as DVD drive, USB port, or internal fan simply means that the computer’s usefulness has decreased but not necessarily to zero. Companies, when deploying hundreds and thousands of computers in an organization, are constantly calculating the productivity losses due to these two types of failures.

Some manufacturers place failure estimates on their products that estimate how long the component will last until its first failure. Often printed on hard drives, the Mean Time Between Failures (MTBF) is just such as estimate. A MTBF of 30,000 hours means that under normal load, the hard drive can be expected to fail at its 30,000th hour of operation. Of course, this is just an estimate based on statistical operations and it is only an average. While some hard drives with a MTBF of 30,000 hours will fail before this time, some will continue to operate far beyond.

Computers especially are sensitive to changes in ambient heat, humidity, and power spikes. Some components in the system attempt to control these factors but users typically put their computers through far more situations than a component manufacturer can simulate in a lab. The result is no way of knowing exactly how long a computer will last.

The best way to guard against unexpected computer failure is to do two things. First, do regular backups of pertinent data. Automated backups are best since they require no human intervention. How often to back up is a question of data sensitivity. If you absolutely cannot lose your data from a previous day, daily backups are recommended. Second, make sure you have a backup computer where you can access your backed up files. It may take days or weeks to fix a computer, especially if the computer is under warranty by a large corporation. The need to procure Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA) numbers, diagnose, and repair the computer can be time consuming and frustrating when needed files cannot be accessed because of routine hardware failure.

Planned Obsolescence in Answering How Long a Computer Should Last

Another approach to answering how long a computer should last is a question of planned obsolescence. In a way, a computer should last as long as it is useful or as long as it needs to last. Take the example of a hard-core gamer. Gaming technology moves quickly and gamers often trade up their computers every one to three years sometimes swapping parts in and out as video cards advance. In a sense, the gamer only needs the computer to last as long as his/her next computer purchase. Unlike the average user wishing to squeeze out as much use as possible, the gamer described above has planned to get a new computer even though his/her current one still functions. He/she is engaging in planned obsolescence.

Planned obsolescence is often used by marketers who plan to make one product obsolete by the introduction of another. In this way, the company stands to make more money by encouraging users of the obsolete product to buy the newer product. As illustrated above, individuals can use this technique to better plan for system replacement and avoid making system failures the criteria that determines the need for a new computer. The user decides how long the computer should last rather than waiting for a system failure.

It is well known that old computers are more expensive to maintain than they are worth. The concept of total cost of ownership (TCO) states that when a computer costs more than buying a new one, the threshold for buying a new computer has been crossed. Here, planned obsolescence is based on cost rather than usefulness. Home computer users can learn from the principle of total cost of ownership by recognizing that old computers become expensive to continue using. Security issues, calls to help desks, failure of minor computer parts all cost time and money. By planning how long the computer should last, the user can avoid these costs and enjoy an even computing experience with few if any interruptions.

Conclusion

There are two ways to answer how long a computer should last. The first deals with failure rates and the imperfect methods used to estimate these failures. The second puts more control in the hands of the user. Rather than passively waiting for a computer to fail, the computer user plans for the computer to become obsolete on a schedule that avoids failure. This, of course, assumes that the planned obsolescence period is expected to expire before failure.

source: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/43834.aspx

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What to do if you have a power surge or outage and your computer won’t turn on afterward.

Help! My Computer Won’t Start!

If your computer won’t boot after a power spike or power outage, it doesn’t necessarily mean that your system got fried. Often times the reason the computer won’t boot after a power spike is because the system was not properly shut down. There are a few things you can do to get your computer back up and running after a power spike, which we’ll address in this article.

Check the Surge Protector

Hopefully, you are using a surge protector to plug in your PC and other components. If not, then you’re asking for trouble. It’s not uncommon in the event of a power spike or power outage for the surge protector to cut itself off. Your surge protector or power strip should have some kind of power button on it and usually there is a light indicator. All you have to do is flip the switch off and back on, then try turning on your computer or anything else plugged in through that strip. It could be that your surge strip got fried while protecting your computer, which is what it’s supposed to do.

Unplug the Power

The power button on the front of most computers is what you call a ‘soft button’. This means that pressing the button ties it into some software or command that runs, and it’s not a hard on/off button like a light switch on a wall. In the event of a power spike or power surge, the soft button gets tripped up because the computer wasn’t shut down properly. When you press the button expecting the PC to turn back on, the software command it might try sending to the OS could be a shut down command, so nothing works.

In order to reset the soft button, as well as the computer, the best method is to simply unplug the power cable from the back of the computer. If it’s a laptop or notebook PC, then you may also need to unplug the battery. Leave the machine unplugged for a good 30 seconds, then plug the cable back in and try to turn it back on. You may also have to press and hold down the power button for as long as ten seconds before the system turns back on.

Reset Power Supply

The power supply is the box mounted inside the back of your computer where the power cable plugs in. It is what takes the AC power and divides it between the internal components of your computer, such as the motherboard, hard drive, video card, and so on. If your computer won’t boot after a power spike and you’ve already unplugged and plugged back in the power cable, you may need to also reset the power supply.

Some power supplies will have a switch on them, and you can just flip the switch off and then back on again to reset the power. You can try doing this with or without the power cable plugged in. If that doesn’t work, another thing you can try is changing the volt selection by flipping that switch back and forth with a flathead screwdriver. That seems to work on some older machines, but do it with the power cable unplugged.

source: http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/72739.aspx

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