How to Compare LCD Monitors Based on Specifications To Find The Right One

With manufacturing improving, LCD panel sizes continue to get larger all while prices keep dropping. Retailers and manufacturers throw around a lot of numbers and terms to describe their products. So, how does one know what all these mean? This article looks to cover the basics so one can make an informed decision when buying an LCD monitor.

Screen Size

The screen size is the measurement of the displayable area of the screen from the lower corner to the opposite upper corner of the display. LCD’s typically gave their actual measurements but they are now rounding those numbers. Be sure to find the real dimensions typically referred to as the actual screen size the whenever looking at a LCD.

Aspect Ratio

The aspect ratio refers to the number of horizontal pixels to vertical pixels in a display. Traditional displays used a 4:3 aspect ratio. Most new widescreen monitors use either a 16:10 or 16:9 aspect ratio. The 16:9 is the ratio typically used for HDTVs. Now a new breed of ultra wide monitors is coming to market. These have a near 2:1 width to high measurements.

Native Resolutions

All LCD screens can actually display only a single given resolution referred to as the native resolution. This is the physical number of horizontal and vertical pixels that make up the LCD matrix of the display. Setting a computer display to a resolution lower than this resolution will either cause extrapolation. This extrapolation attempts to blend multiple pixels together to produce a similar image to what you would see if the monitor were to display it at the given resolution but it can result in fuzzy images.

Here are some of the common native resolutions found in LCD monitors:

* 17-19″: 1280×1024 (SXGA)
* 20″+: 1600×1200 (UXGA)
* 17″ (Widescreen): 1280×800 (WXGA)
* 19″ (Widescreen): 1440×900 (WXGA+)
* 22″ (Widescreen): 1680×1050 (WSXGA+)
* 23.6″ (Widescreen): 1920×1080 (WUXGA)
* 23″ (Ultra-Widescreen): 2048×1152 (QWXGA)
* 24″ (Widescreen): 1920×1200 (WUXGA)
* 30″ (Widescreen): 2560×1600

Contrast Ratio

Contrast ratios are a big marketing tool by the manufacturers and one that is not easy for consumers to grasp. Essentially, this is the measurement of the difference in brightness from the darkest to brightest portion on the screen. The problem is that this measurement will vary throughout the screen. This is due to the slight variations in the lighting behind the panel. Manufacturers will use the highest contrast ratio they can find on a screen, so it is somewhat deceptive. Basically a higher contrast ratio will mean that the screen will tend to have deeper blacks and brighter whites.

Color Gamut

Each LCD panel will vary slightly in how well they can reproduce color. When an LCD is being used for tasks that require a high level of color accuracy, it is important to find out what the panel’s color gamut is. This is a description that lets you know how wide a range of color the screen can display. The larger the percentage of NTSC, the greater level of color a monitor can display.

Response Times

In order to achieve the color on a pixel in an LCD panel, a current is applied to the crystals at that pixel to change the state of the crystals. Response times refer to the amount of time it takes for the crystals in the panel to move from an on to off state. A rising response time refers to the amount of time it takes to turn on the crystals and the falling time is the amount of time it takes for the crystals to move from an on to off state. Rising times tend to be very fast on LCDs, but the falling time tends to be much slower. This tends to cause a slight blurring effect on bright moving images on black backgrounds. The lower the response time, the less of a blurring effect there will be on the screen. Most response times now refer to a gray to gray rating that generates a lower time than the traditional full on to off state response times.

Viewing Angles

LCD’s produce their image by having a film that when a current runs through the pixel, it turns on that shade of color. The problem with the LCD film is that this color can only be accurately represented when viewed straight on. The further away from a perpendicular viewing angle, the color will tend to wash out. The LCD monitors are generally rated for their visible viewing angle for both horizontal and vertical. This is rated in degrees and is the arc of a semicircle whose center is at the perpendicular to the screen. A theoretical viewing angle of 180 degrees would mean that it is fully visible from any angle in front of the screen. A higher viewing angle is preferred over a lower angle unless you happen to want some security with your screen.

Connectors

Most LCD panels have an analog and a digital connector on them. The analog connector is the VGA or DSUB-15. The common digital interface is the DVI connector. This is a digital interface that is supposed to allow for a cleaner and brighter picture compared to standard VGA connectors. HDMI and DisplayPort are two other digital interfaces that are becoming common. Check to see what type of connector your video card can use before buying a monitor to ensure you get a compatible monitor. Some monitors may also come with home theater connectors including component, composite and S-video.

Stands

Many people don’t consider the stand when purchasing a monitor but it can make a huge difference. There are typically four different types of adjustment: height, tilt, swivel and pivot. Many less expensive monitors only feature the tilt adjustment. Height, tilt and swivel are generally the critical types of adjustments allowing for the greatest flexibility when using the monitor in the most ergonomic fashion.

source: http://compreviews.about.com/od/monitors/a/LCD-Monitor-Buyers-Guide.htm

Tweet this!

Determining How Well an LCD Monitor is at Reproducing Color

What is Color Gamut?

Color gamut refers to the various levels of colors that can potentially be displayed by a device. There are actually two types of color gamuts, additive and subtractive. Additive refers to color that is generate by mixing together colored light to generate a final color. This is the style used by computers, televisions and other devices. It is more often referred to as RGB based on the red, green and blue colors used to generate the colors. Subtractive color is that used by mixing together dyes that prevent reflection of light that then produce a color. This is the style used for all printed media such as photos, magazines and books. It is also generally referred to as CMYK based on the cyan, magenta, yellow and black colors used.

Since we are talking about LCD monitors in this article, we will be looking at the RGB color gamuts and how various monitors are rated for their color. The problem is that there are a variety of different color gamuts that a screen can be rated by.

sRGB, AdobeRGB and NTSC

In order to quantify how much color a device can handle, it uses one of the standardized color gamuts that define a particular range of color. The most common of the RGB based color gamuts is sRGB. This is the typical color gamut used for all computer displays, TVs, cameras, video recorders and other consumer electronics. It is one of the oldest and therefore narrowest of the color gamuts that is used in reference for computer and consumer electronics.

AdobeRGB was developed by Adobe as a color gamut to provide a wider range of colors than sRGB. They developed this to be used with their various graphics programs including Photoshop as a means to give professionals a greater level of color when they work on graphics and photos before converting for print. CMYK has a much greater color range compared to RGB gamuts, thus the wider AdobeRGB gamut gives a better translation of colors to print than sRGB.

NTSC was the color space developed for the widest range of colors that can be represented to the human eye. Many may think that this has to do with the television standard group that it is named after, but it is not. Most real world devices to date do not have the ability to actually reach this level of color in a display.

So, to quantify the various color gamuts in terms of their relative range of color of narrowest to widest would be: sRGB < AdobeRGB < NTSC. In general, displays are generally referred to compared to the NTSC color standard unless they state a different standard.

What is the Typical Color Gamut of a Display?

Monitors are generally rated on their color by the percentage of colors out of a color gamut that are possible. Thus, a monitor that is rated at 100% NTSC can display all of the colors within the NTSC color gamut. A screen with a 50% NTSC color gamut can only represent half of those colors.

The average computer monitor will display around 70 to 75% of the NTSC color gamut. This is fine for most people as they are used to the color they have seen over the years from television and video sources. (72% of NTSC is roughly equivalent to 100% of the sRGB color gamut.) The CRTs used in most televisions and color monitors also produced roughly a 70% color gamut.

Those that are looking to use a display for graphical work for either a hobby or profession will probably want something that has a greater range of color. This is where many of the newer high color or wide gamut displays have come into play. In order for a display to be listed as a wide gamut, it generally needs to produce at least a 92% NTSC color gamut.

An LCD monitor’s backlight is the key factor in determining its overall color gamut. The most common backlight used in an LCD is a CCFL (Cold-Cathode Fluorescent Light). These can generally produce around the 75% NTSC color gamut. Improved CCFL lights can be used to generate roughly 100% NTSC. Newer white LED backlighting has been able to actually generate greater than 100% NTSC color gamuts.

Summary

If an LCD monitor’s color is an important feature for your computer, it is important to find out how much color it can actually represent. Manufacturer specs that list the number of colors are generally not useful and typically inaccurate when it comes to what they actually display versus what they theoretically can display. Because of this, consumers should really learn what the monitors color gamut is. This will give consumers a much better representation of what the monitor is capable in terms of color. Be sure to know what the percentage is as well as the color gamut that percentage is based off of.

Here is a quick list of the common ranges for different levels of displays:

* Average LCD: 70 to 75% of NTSC
* Professional non-Wide Gamut LCD: 80 to 90% of NTSC
* Wide Gamut CCFL LCD: 92 to 100% of NTSC
* Wide Gamut LED LCD: 100%+ of NTSC

source: http://compreviews.about.com/od/monitors/a/LCDColorGamut.htm

Tweet this!

According to a recent poll, over 1/3 of you have your HDTV cords hidden behind a wall.

This may be a big violation of the National Electric Code that could void your insurance coverage.

    The National Electric Code (NEC) states:

    NEC ARTICLE 400 Flexible Cords and Cables General 400.1 Scope.
    This article covers general requirements, applications, and construction specifications for flexible cords and flexible cables.
    400.8 Uses Not Permitted.
    Flexible cords and cables shall not be used for the following:
    (1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure
    (2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors
    (3) Where run through doorways, windows, or similar openings
    (4) Where attached to building surfaces
    Exception: Flexible cord and cable shall be permitted to be attached to building surfaces in accordance with the provisions of 368.8.
    (5) Where concealed by walls, floors, or ceilings or located above suspended or dropped ceilings

In other words, running power cords through the walls is not a substitute for permanent wiring. You’re supposed to have a new electric socket installed directly behind the TV, where you can plug in the power cord and coil up the slack to tuck underneath. If you drilled some holes and ran cable yourself all willy nilly, in and back out to a power socket, chances are you are in violation of these codes. Should a fire result, your insurance may find reason to get out of covering your losses. Naturally, it is in your best interests to hire a professional to check out your setup and make sure everything is as it should be. That having been said, let’s clarify the original poll and focus on how many of you might be on the wrong side of the NEC.

Tweet this!

You have probably heard the term FireWire if you have any interest in digital video — or maybe you know it as Sony i.Link or as IEEE 1394, the offical name for the standard. FireWire is a way to connect different pieces of equipment so they can easily and quickly share information.

­Originally created by Apple and standardized in 1995 as the specification IEEE 1394 High Performance Serial Bus, FireWire is very similar to Universal Serial Bus (USB). The designers of FireWire had several particular goals in mind when they created the standard:

* Fast transfer of data
* Ability to put lots of devices on the bus
* Ease of use
* Hot-pluggable ability
* Provision of power through the cable
* Plug-and-play performance
* Low cabling cost
* Low implementation cost

What is FireWire?

FireWire is a method of transferring information between digital devices, especially audio and video equipment. Also known as IEEE 1394, FireWire is fast — the latest version achieves speeds up to 800 Mbps. At some time in the future, that number is expected to jump to an unbelievable 3.2 Gbps when manufacturers overhaul the current FireWire cables.

You can connect up to 63 devices to a FireWire bus. Windows operating systems (98 and later) and Mac OS (8.6 and later) both support it.

Let’s say you have your digital camcorder connected to your home computer. When your computer powers up, it queries all of the devices connected to the bus and assigns each one an address, a process called enumeration. FireWire is plug-and-play, so if you connect a new FireWire device to your computer, the operating system auto-detects it and asks for the driver disc. If you’ve already installed the device, the computer activates it and starts talking to it. FireWire devices are hot pluggable, which means they can be connected and disconnected at any time, even with the power on.

FireWire Cables and Connectors

FireWire devices can be powered or unpowered. FireWire allows devices to draw their power from their connection. Two power conductors in the cable can supply power (8 to 30 volts, 1.5 amps maximum) from the computer to an unpowered device. Two twisted pair sets carry the data in a FireWire 400 cable using a 6-pin configuration.

Some smaller FireWire-enabled devices use 4-pin connectors to save space, omitting the two pins used to supply power.

FireWire 800 cables use a 9-pin configuration. Six of those pins are the same as the six pins in the 1394a connector (shown above). Two of the added pins provide a “grounded shield” to protect the other wires from interference, and the third added pin does nothing at this time.

Because FireWire 800 is backward-compatible with FireWire 400, there are a variety of adapters available to facilitate the combination of both standards on the same bus. There are also two types of FireWire 800 ports available: a “bilingual” port accomodates both FireWire standards, while a b-only port accepts only a FireWire 800 connector.

Sending Data via FireWire

FireWire uses 64-bit fixed addressing, based on the IEEE 1212 standard. There are three parts to each packet of information sent by a device over FireWire:

* A 10-bit bus ID that is used to determine which FireWire bus the data came from
* A 6-bit physical ID that identifies which device on the bus sent the data
* A 48-bit storage area that is capable of addressing 256 terabytes of information for each node

The bus ID and physical ID together comprise the 16-bit node ID, which allows for 64,000 nodes on a system. Data can be sent through up to 16 hops (device to device). Hops occur when devices are daisy-chained together. Look at the example below. The camcorder is connected to the external hard drive connected to Computer A. Computer A is connected to Computer B, which in turn is connected to Computer C. It takes four hops for Computer C to access the camera.

Assuming all of the devices in this setup are equipped with FireWire 800, the camcorder can be up to 400 meters from Computer C.

FireWire and Digital Video

FireWire really shines when it comes to digital video applications. Most digital video cameras or camcorders now have a FireWire plug. When you attach a camcorder to a computer using FireWire, the connection is amazing.

An important element of FireWire is the support of isochronous devices. In isochronous mode, data streams between the device and the host in real-time with guaranteed bandwidth and no error correction. Essentially, this means that a device like a digital camcorder can request that the host computer allocate enough bandwidth for the camcorder to send uncompressed video in real-time to the computer. When the computer-to-camera FireWire connection enters isochronous mode, the camera can send the video in a steady flow to the computer without anything disrupting the process.

You can easily edit and create custom video projects using fast hard drives, a digital camcorder and a computer. With the right software, the computer and the camera communicate, and the computer can download all of the video automatically and with perfect digital clarity. Since the content is digital from start to finish, there is no loss of quality as you work on successive generations.

source: http://computer.howstuffworks.com/firewire.htm

Tweet this!

Just about any computer that you buy today comes with one or more Universal Serial Bus connectors on the back. These USB connectors let you attach everything from mice to printers to your computer quickly and easily. The operating system supports USB as well, so the installation of the device drivers is quick and easy, too. Compared to other ways of connecting devices to your computer (including parallel ports, serial ports and special cards that you install inside the computer’s case), USB devices are incredibly simple!

In this article, we will look at USB ports from both a user and a technical standpoint. You will learn why the USB system is so flexible and how it is able to support so many devices so easily — it’s truly an amazing system!

Anyone who has been around computers for more than two or three years knows the problem that the Universal Serial Bus is trying to solve — in the past, connecting devices to computers has been a real headache!

* Printers connected to parallel printer ports, and most computers only came with one. Things like Zip drives, which need a high-speed connection into the computer, would use the parallel port as well, often with limited success and not much speed.

* Modems used the serial port, but so did some printers and a variety of odd things like Palm Pilots and digital cameras. Most computers have at most two serial ports, and they are very slow in most cases.

* Devices that needed faster connections came with their own cards, which had to fit in a card slot inside the computer’s case. Unfortunately, the number of card slots is limited and you needed a Ph.D. to install the software for some of the cards.

The goal of USB is to end all of these headaches. The Universal Serial Bus gives you a single, standardized, easy-to-use way to connect up to 127 devices to a computer.

Just about every peripheral made now comes in a USB version. A sample list of USB devices that you can buy today includes:

* Printers
* Scanners
* Mice
* Joysticks
* Flight yokes
* Digital cameras
* Webcams
* Scientific data acquisition devices
* Modems
* Speakers
* Telephones
* Video phones
* Storage devices such as Zip drives
* Network connections

USB Cables and Connectors

Connecting a USB device to a computer is simple — you find the USB connector on the back of your machine and plug the USB connector into it.

If it is a new device, the operating system auto-detects it and asks for the driver disk. If the device has already been installed, the computer activates it and starts talking to it. USB devices can be connected and disconnected at any time.

Many USB devices come with their own built-in cable, and the cable has an “A” connection on it. If not, then the device has a socket on it that accepts a USB “B” connector.

The USB standard uses “A” and “B” connectors to avoid confusion:

* “A” connectors head “upstream” toward the computer.
* “B” connectors head “downstream” and connect to individual devices.

By using different connectors on the upstream and downstream end, it is impossible to ever get confused — if you connect any USB cable’s “B” connector into a device, you know that it will work. Similarly, you can plug any “A” connector into any “A” socket and know that it will work.

USB Hubs

Most computers that you buy today come with one or two USB sockets. With so many USB devices on the market today, you easily run out of sockets very quickly. For example, on the computer that I am typing on right now, I have a USB printer, a USB scanner, a USB Webcam and a USB network connection. My computer has only one USB connector on it, so the obvious question is, “How do you hook up all the devices?”

The easy solution to the problem is to buy an inexpensive USB hub. The USB standard supports up to 127 devices, and USB hubs are a part of the standard.

A hub typically has four new ports, but may have many more. You plug the hub into your computer, and then plug your devices (or other hubs) into the hub. By chaining hubs together, you can build up dozens of available USB ports on a single computer.

Hubs can be powered or unpowered. As you will see on the next page, the USB standard allows for devices to draw their power from their USB connection. Obviously, a high-power device like a printer or scanner will have its own power supply, but low-power devices like mice and digital cameras get their power from the bus in order to simplify them. The power (up to 500 milliamps at 5 volts) comes from the computer. If you have lots of self-powered devices (like printers and scanners), then your hub does not need to be powered — none of the devices connecting to the hub needs additional power, so the computer can handle it. If you have lots of unpowered devices like mice and cameras, you probably need a powered hub. The hub has its own transformer and it supplies power to the bus so that the devices do not overload the computer’s supply.

The USB Process

When the host powers up, it queries all of the devices connected to the bus and assigns each one an address. This process is called enumeration — devices are also enumerated when they connect to the bus. The host also finds out from each device what type of data transfer it wishes to perform:

* Interrupt – A device like a mouse or a keyboard, which will be sending very little data, would choose the interrupt mode.

* Bulk – A device like a printer, which receives data in one big packet, uses the bulk transfer mode. A block of data is sent to the printer (in 64-byte chunks) and verified to make sure it is correct.

* Isochronous – A streaming device (such as speakers) uses the isochronous mode. Data streams between the device and the host in real-time, and there is no error correction.

The host can also send commands or query parameters with control packets.

As devices are enumerated, the host is keeping track of the total bandwidth that all of the isochronous and interrupt devices are requesting. They can consume up to 90 percent of the 480 Mbps of bandwidth that is available. After 90 percent is used up, the host denies access to any other isochronous or interrupt devices. Control packets and packets for bulk transfers use any bandwidth left over (at least 10 percent).

The Universal Serial Bus divides the available bandwidth into frames, and the host controls the frames. Frames contain 1,500 bytes, and a new frame starts every millisecond. During a frame, isochronous and interrupt devices get a slot so they are guaranteed the bandwidth they need. Bulk and control transfers use whatever space is left.

USB Features

The Universal Serial Bus has the following features:

* The computer acts as the host.

* Up to 127 devices can connect to the host, either directly or by way of USB hubs.

* Individual USB cables can run as long as 5 meters; with hubs, devices can be up to 30 meters (six cables’ worth) away from the host.

* With USB 2.,the bus has a maximum data rate of 480 megabits per second.

* A USB cable has two wires for power (+5 volts and ground) and a twisted pair of wires to carry the data.

* On the power wires, the computer can supply up to 500 milliamps of power at 5 volts.

* Low-power devices (such as mice) can draw their power directly from the bus. High-power devices (such as printers) have their own power supplies and draw minimal power from the bus. Hubs can have their own power supplies to provide power to devices connected to the hub.

* USB devices are hot-swappable, meaning you can plug them into the bus and unplug them any time.

* Many USB devices can be put to sleep by the host computer when the computer enters a power-saving mode.

The devices connected to a USB port rely on the USB cable to carry power and data.

USB 2.0

The standard for USB version 2.0 was released in April 2000 and serves as an upgrade for USB 1.1.

USB 2.0 (High-speed USB) provides additional bandwidth for multimedia and storage applications and has a data transmission speed 40 times faster than USB 1.1. To allow a smooth transition for both consumers and manufacturers, USB 2.0 has full forward and backward compatibility with original USB devices and works with cables and connectors made for original USB, too.

Supporting three speed modes (1.5, 12 and 480 megabits per second), USB 2.0 supports low-bandwidth devices such as keyboards and mice, as well as high-bandwidth ones like high-resolution Webcams, scanners, printers and high-capacity storage systems. The deployment of USB 2.0 has allowed PC industry leaders to forge ahead with the development of next-generation PC peripherals to complement existing high-performance PCs. The transmission speed of USB 2.0 also facilitates the development of next-generation PCs and applications. In addition to improving functionality and encouraging innovation, USB 2.0 increases the productivity of user applications and allows the user to run multiple PC applications at once or several high-performance peripherals simultaneously.

source: http://computer.howstuffworks.com/usb.htm

Tweet this!

Introduction

Being the brain of the computer, the CPU plays a very important role in determining the performance of the system. Unfortunately, when it comes to choosing the best CPU (especially for a gaming computer), you will probably feel like a lost sheep. With different brands, models, speeds and specifications to choose from, it can really be a difficult task to decide which CPU is the right one for you.

In this guide, we give you a complete overview of what a CPU is, what are the important factors that will affect its performance and how you should go about choosing the the CPU that is best suited to your needs.

What is a CPU?

The CPU (Central Processing Unit), or sometimes known as processor, is one of the most important component in a computer system. Being the brain of the computer system, its task is to take care of all the data calculation and make sure they are processed in the fastest time possible.

CPU is not something you can see from the outside of the computer. In fact, you won’t be able to see the CPU on a fully-assembled PC. To see it, you have to remove the computer casing, unplug the wire and remove the heatsink (and fan), only then can you see the surface of the CPU. The shape of the CPU is a small square chip with lot of connector pin underneath.

How CPU works

How a CPU works is actually very simple and can be illustrated with the following 3 steps:

1. When you click to execute an application, the raw instruction is first fetched from the hard disk (sometimes from the memory) and sent to the CPU for processing.
2. When the CPU receives the instruction, it will execute the logic and compute the result.
3. Once the CPU finishes processing, it will send the result to the respective device to output to the user.

While it may seems easy, all these 3 steps must be completed in a split second. Delays in any of these steps will result in a lag in the computer, which we do not want it to happen on our gaming computer at all.

Therefore, to improve the performance of the computer, it is not enough to have a fast CPU, you still have to ensure that the transfer of information to the CPU are done in the shortest time.

Factors that affect a CPU performance

It is easy to think that the speed of the CPU is directly link to the performance of the CPU. In actual facts, this is only true to a certain extent. A CPU with fast speed will not be efficient if it has only a limited data to process each time. To achieve maximum efficiency, the hardware (especially the hard drive and memory) that linked to the CPU must supply data as fast as the CPU speed. Failure to do this will result in a lagging computer, regardless how fast the CPU is.

Below, let’s look at the other factors that affect the CPU performance.

CPU Clock Speed

The operating frequency of the CPU (also known as the clock speed) determines how fast it can process instruction.

The speed is measured in terms of Hertz, and it is usually lies in the megaHertz (MHz) or gigaHertz (GHz) range. A megaHertz means that the CPU can process one million instruction per second whereas a gigahertz CPU has the capability to process one billion instructions per second. In today technology, all CPUs run in the gigahertz range and you seldom see CPU with speed in the MHz range anymore.

Theoretically, a 500 MHz CPU is six times slower than a 3 GHz CPU. Equally, a 3.6 GHz CPU is faster than a 3 GHz or a 3.4 GHz CPU. In general, the higher the frequency of a CPU, the faster the speed of the computer.

Cache

Remember we mentioned above that for the CPU to work at its maximum efficiency, the data transfer from the other hardware must be as fast as its speed? The purpose of a cache is to ensure this smooth and fast transition of data transfer from the hardware to the CPU.

To understand how the importance of a cache, it is necessary to understand how the whole process works.The main bulk of information comes from the hard drive. When an application is requested, the motherboard will fetch the required information from the hard drive and deliver it to the CPU for processing. Since the hard drive processing speed is much slower than the CPU, data transfer often takes a long time. To fasten thing up, the RAM is used to store temporary information from the hard drive. Instead of heading straight to the hard drive, the motherboard now checks and retrieves the data from the RAM. Only when the required information is not found in the RAM then will the motherboard go to the hard drive.

As CPU speed increased to the point where the RAM is no longer able to catch up, the transferring of information again become a serious problem. To solve this issue, a cache, which was effectively a small and extremely fast memory, was added to the processor to store immediate instruction from the RAM. Since the cache runs at the same speed of the CPU, it can rapidly provide information to the CPU at the shortest time without any lag.

There are different levels of cache. Level 1 (L1) cache is the most basic form of cache and is found on every processor. Level 2 (L2) cache has a bigger memory size and is used to store more immediate instructions. In general, the L1 cache caches the L2 cache which in turn caches the RAM which in turn caches the hard disk data.

L2 cache plays the greatest part in improving the performance of the processors. The larger the cache size, the faster the data transfer and the better the CPU performance. However, cache is very costly. That is why you don’t find 1GB of cache in your system.

Multi-Core

In the past, if you want to get a faster computer, you have to get a faster CPU. Today, this is only partially true. The reason being, CPU speed can’t increase forever. There is limitation as to how fast the transistors can run and when it reaches a plateau, you won’t be able to increase the speed anymore.

To tackle this problem, CPU manufacturers (in this case, Intel and AMD) adopted a multi-core technology, which literally means putting multiple cores in a CPU chip. While increasing the CPU speed resulted in faster data calculation, putting more cores in a chip resulted in more work done at the same time.

Intel vs. AMD, Which Is Better?

You may have seen report saying that Intel is better, and on the next day, another report saying AMD is better.

You are confused…which one is better? AMD or Intel?

Both AMD and Intel CPUs are built on different circuitry and for that, it is impossible to compare apple to apple. If you were to ask me which one is better, I can only say that both are equally good and whether you choose an Intel or AMD CPU depend entirely on your preferences.

Below we will discuss the unique features of each CPU brand.

Intel: HyperThreading

Hyper threading is an Intel technology that enables the operating system to treat a single CPU as two separate CPU. In this case, the OS can split its workload into multiple threads and sent them to the two CPU concurrently. With the same amount of time spent, twice the amount of work can be done.

However, things don’t always happen as good as it sounds; HyperThreading does not necessarily lead to a performance increase. Let see why:

If you are running two pieces of software, each under its own thread, then HyperThreading can be effectively utilized to process the data simultaneously. In this case, you will see a noticeable boost in your system performance. However, in the event that there is only an application with a large chunk of data that cannot be easily split into smaller parts, the OS can only load one CPU with the calculation and leave the other idle. While this won’t cause your system to slow down, it is really a waste of resource. Such incidents are particularly true for games where all the logics are dependent to each other, and it is just not possible to split the tasks and processed with different CPU.

For HyperThreading to really increase the system performance, the software using it has to be specifically programmed for this optimization.

Hyper transport is an AMD technology designed to increase the communication speed between various components in computers. It is a completely different technology from Intel HyperThreading, but can achieve the same effect of raising the system performance. While HyperThreading serves to increase the amount of work done per CPU, HyperTransport serves to improve the data transfer process from other hardware to the CPU. What it does is to reduce the number of connection (buses) in a system, such that data can be transported from a component to another component in a shorter amount of time. This reduces the system bottlenecks and enables the CPU to use system memory more efficiently.

Core Frequency

As mentioned earlier, both Intel and AMD CPU have different circuitry and you can’t compare them apple to apple. This applies the same for their clock speed as well. If you have noticed, Intel’s speed always seems to be higher than AMD. Be careful, this does not imply that the Intel CPU is better.

The higher clocker speed simply means that there are more work cycles per second, not the amount of work done per second. Intel CPU has the tendency to divide its task into many small parts for easy processing. As such, the amount of work done per cycle is relatively small. On the contrast, AMD has lesser work cycle, but it processes more data per cycle. Thus, when it adds up, the amount of work done can be quite significant.

Unless we do benchmarking to determine the performance of each AMD and Intel CPU, it is definitely not a good idea to say that Intel is a better chip because it has a higher clock speed.

Front Side Bus

The Front Side Bus (FSB) is the communication channel that transfers data between the CPU and the other components in the system. Generally, the bandwidth of the FSB determines how much data can be transferred per second. The higher the bandwidth, the better is the system performance.

Since all the expansion cards (especially graphics card) connect to the CPU via the FSB, it is important to have a fast FSB speed to avoid any lag in the system performance.

In AMD, the HyperTransport technology has replaced the FSB with an integrated memory controller to control the data transfer to and from the components and the CPU. Due to lesser buses and more controllability, an AMD system is now able to send and receive information from various components simultaneously, and this resulted in a better performance.

Intel CPUs still use a more traditional approach, with the CPU communicating with the memory controller via the front side bus. So with Intel systems, a faster FSB often means somewhat improved performance.

Socket Type

The main reason why you can’t use an AMD and Intel CPU on the same motherboard is because they don’t have the same pin configuration. Because of the different in circuitry, the number of connection pins for both brands of CPU is also different. Even within the same brand, a specific model might use different pin configuration from another model. Thus, when choosing the CPU, it is important to bear in mind the socket type used by your motherboard.

How to Choose the Best CPU That Suits Your Needs?

For a gamer, you don’t want to have a CPU that is only good enough for word processing. What you really want is one that has a great deal of power to run the highest end games out there. While you may not have the budget to get the top end CPU in the market, you shouldn’t scrimp and get the cheapest CPU too. The more important thing is how you can strike a balance between performance and price. Here are three steps to choose your CPU.

1) Determine your budget

The last thing that you want to do is to max out your credit limit to get the most expensive CPU out there. Before you even start shopping, first determine how much money are you willing to spend on the CPU. While there is always a CPU for almost every price range, you will have to set aside about $200 for a decent gaming CPU

2) Select the brand

Choosing either a Intel or AMD CPU is really based on one preferences. Many benchmarking reports have shown that Intel score better than AMD in term of performance and heat generation, but it is more expensive. If you are low on budget, you may want to choose AMD CPU since it costs at only 3/4 of the price of a equivalent Intel CPU and still give you the performance you want.

3) Select the model

When choosing the model, focus on the no of cores, speed, and price. Check out forums/review sites to see how that particular model performs. If you are upgrading the CPU for your existing system, make sure the CPU uses the same socket as the one in your motherboard.

How to Save Money When Buying A CPU?

If you don’t have $1000 to throw around on a processor, that’s fine. There are many processors of different price range and you don’t necessary have to get the most expensive one. Here are some ways to save a few bucks.

Buy the next best processor

You don’t necessary need to get the latest processors in the market. More often than that, they are expensive and the support from other hardware is also not mature yet. You can easily save quite a bit of money simply by getting the next best processor.

Get an AMD CPU

For the same specification, AMD CPUs are generally cheaper than Intel CPUs. While many benchmarking reports have shown that Intel CPUs are better, the truth is that the differences is too small for you to notice. Using an AMD CPU for your game will not affect its performance to a great extent.

source: http://www.build-gaming-computer-guide.com/the-complete-guide-to-choose-a-cpu.html

Tweet this!

Many folks setting up wireless home networks rush through the job to get their Internet connectivity working as quickly as possible. That’s totally understandable. It’s also quite risky as numerous security problems can result. Today’s Wi-Fi networking products don’t always help the situation as configuring their security features can be time-consuming and non-intuitive. The recommendations below summarize the steps you should take to improve the security of your home wireless network.

1. Change Default Administrator Passwords (and Usernames)

At the core of most Wi-Fi home networks is an access point or router. To set up these pieces of equipment, manufacturers provide Web pages that allow owners to enter their network address and account information. These Web tools are protected with a login screen (username and password) so that only the rightful owner can do this. However, for any given piece of equipment, the logins provided are simple and very well-known to hackers on the Internet. Change these settings immediately.

2. Turn on (Compatible) WPA / WEP Encryption

All Wi-Fi equipment supports some form of encryption. Encryption technology scrambles messages sent over wireless networks so that they cannot be easily read by humans. Several encryption technologies exist for Wi-Fi today. Naturally you will want to pick the strongest form of encryption that works with your wireless network. However, the way these technologies work, all Wi-Fi devices on your network must share the identical encryption settings. Therefore you may need to find a “lowest common demoninator” setting.

3. Change the Default SSID

Access points and routers all use a network name called the SSID. Manufacturers normally ship their products with the same SSID set. For example, the SSID for Linksys devices is normally “linksys.” True, knowing the SSID does not by itself allow your neighbors to break into your network, but it is a start. More importantly, when someone finds a default SSID, they see it is a poorly configured network and are much more likely to attack it. Change the default SSID immediately when configuring wireless security on your network.

4. Enable MAC Address Filtering

Each piece of Wi-Fi gear possesses a unique identifier called the physical address or MAC address. Access points and routers keep track of the MAC addresses of all devices that connect to them. Many such products offer the owner an option to key in the MAC addresses of their home equipment, that restricts the network to only allow connections from those devices. Do this, but also know that the feature is not so powerful as it may seem. Hackers and their software programs can fake MAC addresses easily.

5. Disable SSID Broadcast

In Wi-Fi networking, the wireless access point or router typically broadcasts the network name (SSID) over the air at regular intervals. This feature was designed for businesses and mobile hotspots where Wi-Fi clients may roam in and out of range. In the home, this roaming feature is unnecessary, and it increases the likelihood someone will try to log in to your home network. Fortunately, most Wi-Fi access points allow the SSID broadcast feature to be disabled by the network administrator.

6. Do Not Auto-Connect to Open Wi-Fi Networks

Connecting to an open Wi-Fi network such as a free wireless hotspot or your neighbor’s router exposes your computer to security risks. Although not normally enabled, most computers have a setting available allowing these connections to happen automatically without notifying you (the user). This setting should not be enabled except in temporary situations.

7. Assign Static IP Addresses to Devices

Most home networkers gravitate toward using dynamic IP addresses. DHCP technology is indeed easy to set up. Unfortunately, this convenience also works to the advantage of network attackers, who can easily obtain valid IP addresses from your network’s DHCP pool. Turn off DHCP on the router or access point, set a fixed IP address range instead, then configure each connected device to match. Use a private IP address range (like 10.0.0.x) to prevent computers from being directly reached from the Internet.

8. Enable Firewalls On Each Computer and the Router

Modern network routers contain built-in firewall capability, but the option also exists to disable them. Ensure that your router’s firewall is turned on. For extra protection, consider installing and running personal firewall software on each computer connected to the router.

9. Position the Router or Access Point Safely

Wi-Fi signals normally reach to the exterior of a home. A small amount of signal leakage outdoors is not a problem, but the further this signal reaches, the easier it is for others to detect and exploit. Wi-Fi signals often reach through neighboring homes and into streets, for example. When installing a wireless home network, the position of the access point or router determines its reach. Try to position these devices near the center of the home rather than near windows to minimize leakage.

10. Turn Off the Network During Extended Periods of Non-Use
The ultimate in wireless security measures, shutting down your network will most certainly prevent outside hackers from breaking in! While impractical to turn off and on the devices frequently, at least consider doing so during travel or extended periods offline. Computer disk drives have been known to suffer from power cycle wear-and-tear, but this is a secondary concern for broadband modems and routers.

If you own a wireless router but are only using it wired (Ethernet) connections, you can also sometimes turn off Wi-Fi on a broadband router without powering down the entire network.

source: http://compnetworking.about.com/od/wirelesssecurity/tp/wifisecurity.htm

Tweet this!

Question: Is 5 GHz Wireless Network Hardware Better than 2.4 GHz?
Wireless computer network equipment typically uses radio signals in either a 2.4 GHz range or a 5 GHz range. These numbers are advertised prominently on product packaging, but their meaning is often misunderstood. Is 5 GHz network hardware better than 2.4 GHz hardware just because it carries a bigger number?

Answer: No. 5 GHz hardware offers a few advantages over 2.4 GHz hardware, but in practice, 2.4 GHz is usually the better choice for home and other wireless local networks.
GHz and Network Speed
The GHz range of a wireless radio only partially relates to the speed of a wireless network. For example, 802.11a Wi-Fi hardware runs at 5 GHz but supports the same maximum data rate of 54 Mbps as standard 802.11g network that run at 2.4 GHz.

A 5 GHz network can carry more data than a 2.4 GHz network assuming the electric power to the higher frequency radios is maintained at a higher level. However, some 802.11g network products match and even exceed this potential speed advantage of 5 GHz 802.11a by utilizing a pair of radios instead of one, increasing capacity up to 108 Mbps under the right conditions.

Advantage: Both

GHz and Network Range
The higher the frequency of a wireless signal, the shorter its range. Thus, 2.4 GHz networks cover a substantially larger range than 5 GHz wireless networks. In particular, the higher frequency wireless signals of 5 GHz networks do not penetrate solid objects nearly as well as do 2.4 GHz signals, limiting their reach inside homes.

Advantage: 2.4 GHz.

GHz and Network Interference
You may notice your cordless phone, automatic garage door opener, or other home appliance also advertises 2.4 GHz signals on its packaging. Because this frequency range is commonly used in consumer products, it’s more likely a 2.4 GHz home network will pick up interference from appliances than will a 5 GHz home network.

Advantage: 5 GHz

GHz and Cost
Some people mistakenly believe 5 GHz network technology is newer or somehow more innovative than 2.4 GHz. In fact, both types of signaling have existed for many years and are both proven technologies.

802.11g Wi-Fi products that run at 2.4 GHz tend to cost less than 802.11a Wi-Fi products not because 802.11g is obsolete or less capable, but because 802.11g is much more popular and thus economical for manufacturers to support.

Advantage: 2.4 GHz

5 GHz vs 2.4 GHz – The Bottom Line
5 GHz and 2.4 GHz are different wireless signaling frequencies that each have advantages for computer networking. Higher frequency networks are not necessarily superior to lower frequency ones, however. So-called dual band hardware combines the best of both types of hardware by integrating both types of radios into the product.

source: http://compnetworking.about.com/od/wirelessfaqs/f/5ghz-gear.htm

Tweet this!

Computer networks for the home and small business can be built using either wired or wireless technology. Wired Ethernet has been the traditional choice in homes, but Wi-Fi wireless technologies are gaining ground fast. Both wired and wireless can claim advantages over the other; both represent viable options for home and other local area networks (LANs).

Below we compare wired and wireless networking in five key areas:

* ease of installation
* total cost
* reliability
* performance
* security

About Wired LANs
Wired LANs use Ethernet cables and network adapters. Although two computers can be directly wired to each other using an Ethernet crossover cable, wired LANs generally also require central devices like hubs, switches, or routers to accommodate more computers.

For dial-up connections to the Internet, the computer hosting the modem must run Internet Connection Sharing or similar software to share the connection with all other computers on the LAN. Broadband routers allow easier sharing of cable modem or DSL Internet connections, plus they often include built-in firewall support.
Installation
Ethernet cables must be run from each computer to another computer or to the central device. It can be time-consuming and difficult to run cables under the floor or through walls, especially when computers sit in different rooms. Some newer homes are pre-wired with CAT5 cable, greatly simplifying the cabling process and minimizing unsightly cable runs.

The correct cabling configuration for a wired LAN varies depending on the mix of devices, the type of Internet connection, and whether internal or external modems are used. However, none of these options pose any more difficulty than, for example, wiring a home theater system.

After hardware installation, the remaining steps in configuring either wired or wireless LANs do not differ much. Both rely on standard Internet Protocol and network operating system configuration options. Laptops and other portable devices often enjoy greater mobility in wireless home network installations (at least for as long as their batteries allow).
Cost
Ethernet cables, hubs and switches are very inexpensive. Some connection sharing software packages, like ICS, are free; some cost a nominal fee. Broadband routers cost more, but these are optional components of a wired LAN, and their higher cost is offset by the benefit of easier installation and built-in security features.
Reliability
Ethernet cables, hubs and switches are extremely reliable, mainly because manufacturers have been continually improving Ethernet technology over several decades. Loose cables likely remain the single most common and annoying source of failure in a wired network. When installing a wired LAN or moving any of the components later, be sure to carefully check the cable connections.

Broadband routers have also suffered from some reliability problems in the past. Unlike other Ethernet gear, these products are relatively new, multi-function devices. Broadband routers have matured over the past several years and their reliability has improved greatly.
Performance
Wired LANs offer superior performance. Traditional Ethernet connections offer only 10 Mbps bandwidth, but 100 Mbps Fast Ethernet technology costs little more and is readily available. Although 100 Mbps represents a theoretical maximum performance never really achieved in practice, Fast Ethernet should be sufficient for home file sharing, gaming, and high-speed Internet access for many years into the future.

Wired LANs utilizing hubs can suffer performance slowdown if computers heavily utilize the network simultaneously. Use Ethernet switches instead of hubs to avoid this problem; a switch costs little more than a hub.
Security
For any wired LAN connected to the Internet, firewalls are the primary security consideration. Wired Ethernet hubs and switches do not support firewalls. However, firewall software products like ZoneAlarm can be installed on the computers themselves. Broadband routers offer equivalent firewall capability built into the device, configurable through its own software.

About Wireless LANs
Popular WLAN technologies all follow one of the three main Wi-Fi communication standards. The benefits of wireless networking depend on the standard employed:

* 802.11b was the first standard to be widely used in WLANs.
* The 802.11a standard is faster but more expensive than 802.11b; 802.11a is more commonly found in business networks.
* The newest standard, 802.11g, attempts to combine the best of both 802.11a and 802.11b, though it too is more a more expensive home networking option.

Installation
Wi-Fi networks can be configured in two different ways:

* “Ad hoc” mode allows wireless devices to communicate in peer-to-peer mode with each other.
* “Infrastructure” mode allows wireless devices to communicate with a central node that in turn can communicate with wired nodes on that LAN.

Most LANs require infrastructure mode to access the Internet, a local printer, or other wired services, whereas ad hoc mode supports only basic file sharing between wireless devices.

Both Wi-Fi modes require wireless network adapters, sometimes called WLAN cards. Infrastructure mode WLANs additionally require a central device called the access point. The access point must be installed in a central location where wireless radio signals can reach it with minimal interference. Although Wi-Fi signals typically reach 100 feet (30 m) or more, obstructions like walls can greatly reduce their range.
Cost
Wireless gear costs somewhat more than the equivalent wired Ethernet products. At full retail prices, wireless adapters and access points may cost three or four times as much as Ethernet cable adapters and hubs/switches, respectively. 802.11b products have dropped in price considerably with the release of 802.11g, and obviously, bargain sales can be found if shoppers are persistent.
Reliability
Wireless LANs suffer a few more reliability problems than wired LANs, though perhaps not enough to be a significant concern. 802.11b and 802.11g wireless signals are subject to interference from other home applicances including microwave ovens, cordless telephones, and garage door openers. With careful installation, the likelihood of interference can be minimized.

Wireless networking products, particularly those that implement 802.11g, are comparatively new. As with any new technology, expect it will take time for these products to mature.
Performance
Wireless LANs using 802.11b support a maximum theoretical bandwidth of 11 Mbps, roughly the same as that of old, traditional Ethernet. 802.11a and 802.11g WLANs support 54 Mbps, that is approximately one-half the bandwidth of Fast Ethernet. Furthermore, Wi-Fi performance is distance sensitive, meaning that maximum performance will degrade on computers farther away from the access point or other communication endpoint. As more wireless devices utilize the WLAN more heavily, performance degrades even further.

Overall, the performance of 802.11a and 802.11g is sufficient for home Internet connection sharing and file sharing, but generally not sufficient for home LAN gaming.

The greater mobility of wireless LANs helps offset the performance disadvantage. Mobile computers do not need to be tied to an Ethernet cable and can roam freely within the WLAN range. However, many home computers are larger desktop models, and even mobile computers must sometimes be tied to an electrical cord and outlet for power. This undermines the mobility advantage of WLANs in many homes.
Security
In theory, wireless LANs are less secure than wired LANs, because wireless communication signals travel through the air and can easily be intercepted. To prove their point, some engineers have promoted the practice of wardriving, that involves traveling through a residential area with Wi-Fi equipment scanning the airwaves for unprotected WLANs. On balance, though, the weaknesses of wireless security are more theoretical than practical. WLANs protect their data through the Wired Equivalent Privacy (WEP) encryption standard, that makes wireless communications reasonably as safe as wired ones in homes.

No computer network is completely secure and homeowners should research this topic to ensure they are aware of and comfortable with the risks. Important security considerations for homeowners tend to not be related to whether the network is wired or wireless but rather ensuring:

* the home’s Internet firewall is properly configured
* the family is familiar with the danger of Internet “spoof emails” and how to recognize them
* the family is familiar with the concept of “spyware” and how to avoid it
* babysitters, housekeepers and other visitors do not have unwanted access to the network

Conclusion
You’ve studied the analysis and are ready to make your decision. Bottom line, then, which is better – wired or wireless? The table below summarizes the main criteria we’ve considered in this article. If you are very cost-conscious, need maximum performance of your home system, and don’t care much about mobility, then a wired Ethernet LAN is probably right for you.

If on the other hand, cost is less of an issue, you like being an early adopter of leading-edge technologies, and you are really concerned about the task of wiring your home or small business with Ethernet cable, then you should certainly consider a wireless LAN.

source: http://compnetworking.about.com/cs/homenetworking/a/homewiredless.htm

Tweet this!

The age of the Internet has brought through some of the most important innovations in terms of convenience of accessing information, transferring information around the world, and more importantly, being able to ‘head shot’ someone from the other side of the globe (in games of course). It has created entirely new genres of games, programs, and services. The speeds we access this information has also skyrocketed.

From the age of the hardware modems of 56kbps to the new era of broadband offering speeds of over 3 mbps (and more) at affordable costs that make it available to the home user (1 mbps is approx. 1000 kilobytes per second). But people have still, and for the most part, been wired down by their internet connections. This is where the wireless revolution is has come in to play.

Recently I purchased a home wireless router using the new IEEE 802.11g standard in an attempt to try and find a solution to have the flexibility of moving my networked electronics around my home. Of course I jumped at the chance to try out a Wireless Broadband Adapter for the Xbox, and I have been using one for over a year now. So how does wireless stack up against a wired setup? Here are the pros and cons of each set-up.
The Wired Network Approach

Alright, I know there are quite a number of readers who have this kind of setup at home. I used to be on of them. This is the traditional setup for any network that exists and all networks contain at least in some part a wired portion contained within. But is this really a practical solution for home user? Let’s see some of the Pros and Cons of this type of setup.

The Pros to a Wired Network

* Cost
Although it can be somewhat expensive wiring the entire house, it is still the most inexpensive solution in terms of networking, which makes it very appealing.
* Reliability
If everything is connected correctly in terms of wiring, you should hardly ever run into a problem on the cabling end.
* Speed
Although wireless has made a great improvement from the 802.11b standard to 802.11g, it still cannot match the speeds that are now being introduced by new advancements in cabling technology. With speeds now hitting around 10 gigabits per second with category 6 cabling, wireless can not keep up at the moment.

The Cons to a Wired Network

* Setup
Let’s face it, not everyone is a network professional and if you try to setup up a network at home and have no clue at what your doing, your going to run into problems.
* Lack of mobility / flexibility
By far one of the biggest cons of the wired setup. The need to have a cable to access the internet everywhere in the house can cause problems and wiring nightmares.
* Wiring messes
I don’t know about most people but I already have enough wires running behind my computer and my entertainment system and any way I could reduce it would be welcomed. And if you want to connect something without a nearby network jack, running a long cable to your Xbox or PC is not the most appealing thing for guests to see.

The Wireless Network Approach

Wireless has been around for a considerable amount of time in comparison to how long the Internet’s been around. However, it has only been a valid option for home users in the past several years. The wireless movement in North America has just begun and promises a great deal, but is it truly the best options for us? Maybe some of these Pros and Cons might shed some light on the subject.

The Pros to a “Wireless” Network

* Mobility
By far the biggest advantage. Being able to access the internet from any location inside and out side the home is a huge advantage.
* Setup
Even those without a great deal of networking experience can set a wireless network. Just plug the wireless router or base station into the modem and wireless PC or console can connect to the internet with little or no effort.
* Lack of mess
Without any wires it provides the tidiest solution of all the networking possibilities.

The Cons to a “Wireless” Network

* Speed
It still cannot compare to the speeds that are available to the wired networks, but it is getting closer every day.
* Reliability
Wireless networks are still more susceptible to inference than their wired counterparts. While I have been fortunate in having a good strong connection, I have still experienced the odd disconnect from time to time. However, it is important to note that in my experience, your router selection and configuration plays a big part in this.
* Cost
The biggest drawback of the wireless solution. It is still fairly expensive to go wireless but costs have been gradually decreasing.

For the average home user the wired network is the favored network set-up, simple and cost effective. But more and more home users need to be able to move their laptops around to places where network cables cannot run. While this is ideal for a business network, the home environment is completely different and needs to be less restricted.

The wireless solution offers mobility but at a cost of reliability and expense. So which of the two is the better choice? That’s for the you to decide.

source: http://vgstrategies.about.com/od/faq/a/gamesnetworking.htm

Tweet this!