First, you will need to look at the hardware for the computer. You should make sure that your hard drive has plenty of extra storage capacity and you should consider upgrading the RAM in the computer. This random access memory upgrade will help with the processing speed of your computer and will help the computer locate new information quicker as it pulls from various sources in the storage.

You should also look to upgrade your processor. The processor, which is housed within the motherboard, determines the entire speed of the computer. You could easily swap out your processor for a much more effective one which would greatly boost the performance of your Windows based computer.

Second, you will need to clear your computer of all bugs that are slowing it down. This is done by downloading cleaning software which will scan your computer for any viruses or bots and erase them. When you surf the internet you many time unknowingly invite programs into your computer that will mooch off of the processing speed of your computer to monitor your actions online and offline. These bots are very dangerous because they can steal your personal identifiable information and they can also slow down the performance of your Windows based computer.

Finally, if you want to boost the performance of your computer you could download a program that will over clock the performance of your processor. You can do this one of two ways. The program that you download will analyze the speed at which your computer currently runs and it will give you an estimate of how much you could increase this speed by running it through this program.

You could also log into the motherboard programming yourself and tell the processor to run at a faster speed if you know how to read code and understand the programming language. Be careful though, because this could potentially damage your processor and could cause a lot more harm than good if not done properly.

source: http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Boost-a-Windows-Computer&id=5746059

If your computer monitor is blank, you need to determine if the problem is the monitor or the PC. But it can also be caused by bad power and video cables, or even a bad power source. So if your monitor is blank, these steps should help you determine isolate the problem. Keep in mind there are a lot of factors that can contribute to a blank monitor, such as a bad video card, motherboard or power supply in the PC. On the monitor side, you could have issues with its power supply, cables or the LCD backlight itself.

Troubleshooting Computer Monitors

The first thing you should determine is if the monitor is a CRT or a flat panel. CRTs are older and prone to fail with buzzing sounds, such as a TV would. Flat panels can have a backlight go, which means it needs to be replaced. You should check to make sure the monitor is getting power, then play with the buttons on the front to confirm the brightness is turned all the way up. If you still see nothing, disconnect the video cable from the computer and see if a monitor disgnostic image comes up on the screen. Most newer monitors will display this image when there is no power to the monitor. It is a way to easily tell users that the monitor is okay but that there is no signal coming from the PC. If you recall seeing this diagnostic in the past but it does not show now the monitor is probably bad. Try it on another PC if you can to confirm.

You should also go directly into an outlet and by-pass any power strips you might be using. Plugging into an electrical outlet you know works can help narrow your power issues. You should also check any external power supply the monitor might have. Depending on the model, some have the power supply located in the cable, just as a laptop would. If this is the case, there should be a light on the power supply indicating it is OK. If you have a standard power plug, try replacing that with another.

Troubleshooting The Computer

If you have determined the problem is with the computer, you should make sure all connections are secure. Remove both ends of the VGA cable and inspect the entire cable for damage. Confirm the pins are not bent and then reconnect the cable. If the computer has a second video input, try the second one. Occasionally, a computer will have an on-board graphics adapter as well as a card that was later added by the user. Try going back to the original and see if this helps. If so, you may need to tell the BIOS which output to use. If the monitor comes on when the PC first boots but then shuts off when Windows loads, you probably have a bad video driver. Try tapping the F8 key at boot to get into Safe Mode. From here, you can download a new graphics driver from the manufacturer or roll-back the old driver from within the Device Manager. If the monitor is blank from the instant you turn on the computer, you have a computer hardware problem that could be the graphics card, motherboard or even the power supply.

source: http://www.pctechbytes.com/troubleshooting/computer-monitor-is-blank

If your computer continuously beeps and will not boot into Windows
you have some type of hardware problem. The beeping is a BIOS code being issued from the motherboard. The code is designed to inform technicians to the exact cause of the problem so it can be addressed. Some computers will use these beeps, while some machines use beeps in combination with diagnostic lights. Either way, everything you need to know about diagnosing a computer that is continuously beeping is well documented if you know what to look for.

Diagnosing Computer Beep Codes

The first step to diagnosing computer beep codes is to find the make of the BIOS installed on the computer. There is a BIOS chip located on the motherboard that has this information printed on it. Once you locate the BIOS chip, you can search popular sites like BIOS Central for that BIOS and find what the corresponding beep code means. Unfortunately, some of the codes are very similar, so be sure to listen carefully and note how many beeps there are, and the duration of each beep.

So if you have a beep code on an Award BIOS that is high and low pitched, repeating over and over, this means the CPU is overheating or not seated properly. You won’t usually just get a beep code for no reason. Chances are, you have recently made some type of change to the system, whether you simply unplug and move the computer to the other side of the room, or you go into the case and blow out some dust. Reseating the video cards and memory chips
is usually a good place to start. Also, make sure all fans are working properly and all internal connections are tight. A continuous beep code will often have something to do with a card that is not seated properly or some type of issue with the CPU.

source: http://www.pctechbytes.com/hardware/computer-beeps-continuously

While it’s easy to assume a video card is bad because there is no video displaying on the monitor, there are several reasons why that might be happening. So how do you narrow it down to the video card itself? There are several troubleshooting techniques to use to determine if a graphics card is bad, such as noting a steady degradation of performance, artifacts jumbling the screen and even failure to boot while hearing a string of beep codes. You can also swap in another card if you have a similar PC. Process of elimination is sometimes the key, as well. If you do not see the BIOS splash screen and eliminate all other possibilities, such as the cables, the power supply, the monitor and the motherboard–then the video card is probably bad.

Troubleshooting A Bad Video Card

If you power on the computer and there is no video, take notice of any unusual beeping from the computer. Depending on your BIOS manufacturer, you will hear a string of beep codes to indicate a video adapter failure, such as one long and two short beeps. If you hear any unusual beeping, look on the motherboard and find the BIOS manufacturer’s name on the BIOS chip. You can then refer to a BIOS beep code chart to determine the affected hardware.

If you see artifacts on your screen or other types of pixelation, your graphics card is probably going bad. Try re-seating the card and check the video card’s fan to make sure it is spinning fast and is clear of dust and other debris.

To rule out the monitor, make sure the brightness is turned all the way up and disconnect the monitor cable at the PC side. Most modern monitors will display a diagnostic screen if it is not receiving a signal. If the monitor displays this, then the problem lies with the computer and not the monitor.

If you DO see a BIOS boot screen when the PC begins to boot, but the monitor then goes blank as Windows loads, then you probably have a problem with your settings or driver. try booting into Safe Mode by tapping F8 when booting. From Safe Mode, you will be able to correct any driver or display issues that are causing the screen to go blank in Windows.

source: http://www.pctechbytes.com/hardware/symptoms-of-a-bad-video-card

Often overlooked but highly essential to your personal computer system is something called your CMOS battery. CMOS is actually a chip which is built into your computer’s motherboard; it retains your system data and its settings. It is stored here so that the data is maintained and not erased, corrupted or accidentally edited. This chip does not need your computer power supply as it has a battery built into it. This battery generally has a life span of up to ten years. As you can imagine when this battery begins to run low on its power, it can cause instability and even more.

CMOS Battery Failure Symptoms

* Incorrect time and date on your computer. This is one of the earliest warnings and a way to know that it is time to replace the battery.
* Computer will not boot up.
* You may start getting errors during boot up from the motherboard BIOS that state: “CMOS Checksum Error’, ‘CMOS settings wrong’, ‘CMOS battery error’ and or ‘CMOS read error’.
* Blank screens during boot up; or unexpectedly during normal use.
* Saving files or programs does not seem to take. If you install a program one day, and then the next time you turn on your computer it is not there and you have to reinstall it.
* Computer shuts off without notice.
* Drivers no longer installed, or have become corrupt.
* You may run into other strange software and device issues such as your computer no longer being able to locate your printer or mouse; programs will not open on the first few tries, etc.

These are the most common CMOS battery failure symptoms and errors; however, your computer could throw off other signals that are not listed. If your computer is more than a few years old, it could be a wise decision to have the battery tested at first onset of any of these symptoms.

Most computer retailers now have technicians on-site that can test the battery to see if indeed it is running down, most of the times the test will be free. In the event that this was the issue, you will be able to have the technician replace it for you at that time. Unless you have extensive experience working with the internal parts of a computer, it is a good decision to have a professional do the actual CMOS battery replacement.

source: http://ezinearticles.com/?How-To-Determine-A-CMOS-Battery-Failure&id=5177331

If you have little knowledge of the inner workings of a computer, it can seem complicated. When it stop working, you might think there is nothing you can do.

There are a variety of problems that can occur, some of which are major software problems.

Many people have experienced the frustration of turning their computer on and seeing that blue screen of death. But what if you turn your computer on and nothing happens at all?

This could be one of many computer power supply problems! The question is however, what can you do?

If you are having issues with no power to your machine, it is possible that a connector is loose. There is an even the possibility that your power supply is dead.

To determine this, you can open the back of the machine to see if a connector is actually loose.

If you open your machine, you must pay attention to static electricity. Make sure you are grounded so that you do not short out your motherboard or any other hardware.

The main connector is usually a 24+4 pin connector that attaches to the motherboard. It would be best to press on the connector and see if it is loose.

If you hear a click, or if it presses down even a bit, then you may have found your problem. If the computer does not boot however, you may need to replace your unit.

This is not the only power supply problem that you might run into however. In many cases you could find that your power supply is inadequate for a task that you have assigned it.

For instance if you are installing a new video card or an extra hard drive, you might need to upgrade your power supply. If you do not change it, your computer may not function correctly, and it might even overheat.

To keep your computer from overheating, even with an adequate unit, you should always keep it in a well ventilated area.

In addition, you should make sure the power supply is clear of dust and any other debris that might block it.

Keeping your power supply clean may be the most important thing you ever do in terms of caring for your computer and preventing problems.

Keep in mind that the power supply overheating can have dangerous effects that could hurt you or damage your computer.

Always keep a clean unit, and make sure you have enough wattage if you change other components in your computer.

You don’t need the most expensive unit on the market, but one that is compatible with the upgrades on your computer.

source: http://ezinearticles.com/?Computer-Power-Supply-Problems&id=4452344

The motherboard serves to connect all of the parts of a computer together. The CPU, memory, hard drives, optical drives, video card, sound card and other ports and expansion cards all connect to the motherboard directly or via cables.

The motherboard can be thought of as the “back bone” of the computer.

The Motherboard is Also Known As: mainboard, mobo (abbreviation), MB (abbreviation), system board, logic board

Important Motherboard Facts:

Motherboards, cases and power supplies all come in different sizes called form factors. All three must be compatible to work properly together.

Motherboards vary greatly in respect to the types of components they support. For example, each motherboard supports a single type of CPU and a short list of memory types. Additionally, some video cards, hard drives and other peripherals may not be compatible. The motherboard manufacturer should provide clear guidance on component compatibilities.

Popular Motherboard Manufacturers: ASUS, AOpen, Intel, ABIT, MSI, Gigabyte, Biostar

Motherboard Description:

The motherboard is mounted inside the case, opposite the most easily accessible side. It is securely attached via small screws through pre-drilled holes.

The front of the motherboard contains ports that all of the internal components connect to. A single socket/slot houses the CPU. Multiple slots allow for one or more memory modules to be attached. Other ports reside on the motherboard which allow the floppy drive, hard drive and optical drive to connect via ribbon cables. Small wires from the front of the computer case connect to the motherboard to allow the power, reset and LED lights to function. Power from the power supply is delivered to the motherboard by use of a specially designed port.

Also on the front of the motherboard are a number of peripheral card slots. These slots are where most video cards, sound cards and other expansion cards are connected to the motherboard.

On the left side of the motherboard (the side that faces the back end of the case) are a number of ports. These ports allow most of the computer’s external peripherals to connect such as the monitor, printer, keyboard, mouse, speakers, phone line, network cable and more. Most motherboards also include USB and FireWire ports here that allow compatible devices to connect to your computer when you need them – devices like digital still and video cameras.

The motherboard and case are designed so that when peripheral cards are used, the sides of the cards fit just outside the back end, making their ports available for use.

source:
http://pcsupport.about.com/od/componentprofiles/p/p_mobo.htm

The term overclocking is thrown around a lot, for better or worse. If you’re one of the many who has never overclocked, this guide will explain what it is and how to do it to the computers’ processor, motherboard and memory.

The prospect of overclocking a computer system can be intimidating for a computer newcomer, to say the least. The idea is simple enough; make the computer’s processor run faster than its stock speed to gain more performance without paying for it. The execution of this idea though, can be anything but simple.

Successful overclocking is as often a matter of ‘what you know’ as ‘what you have’. Understanding the maze of hardware dependencies and tweaks that can make the difference between a successful overclock and total failure is a demanding practice.

In this Beginners Guide, we will explore the process of overclocking processors, motherboards and memory to achieve a faster yet still stable computer. The article will guide readers step-by-step through understanding overclocking concepts, how to discover their hardware’s overclocking options and the actual process of overclocking. If you consider yourself an expert already, read on – there are a few tips and tricks packed into this guide that you may not know… or have a look at our recent experiment with underclocking. For insight into videocard overclocking, please see our companion guide on that subject right here.

What Does Overclocking Do?

Overclocking a computer’s processor or memory causes it to go faster than its factory rated speed. A processor rated at 2.4GHz might be overclocked to 2.5GHz or 2.6GHz, while memory rated at 200MHz might be pushed to 220MHz or higher. The extra speed results in more work being done by the processor and/or memory in a given time period, increasing the overall computing performance of the PC.

Can Overclocking Damage Computer Hardware?

Yes, but it’s typically unlikely. Generally speaking, when computer hardware is pushed beyond its limits, it will lock up, crash or show other obvious errors long before it gets to the point where the processor or memory might be permanently damaged. The exception to this is if extreme voltages are used when attempting to overclock, but since most motherboards do not support extremely high voltages, and neither does this guide, it’s not likely to be an issue.

For older processors, heat is also a factor worth keeping a close eye on. Modern processors have thermal sensors which will slow down or shut off the PC, but older CPUs do not necessarily feature these safety devices. The best know example of this is the AMD AthlonXP (socket A/462), which was famous for burning itself up in less than 5 seconds if the heatsink was not installed properly (or at all).

The Purpose of Overclocking

The most obvious reason to overclock a computer system is to squeeze some additional performance out of it at little or no cost. Overclocking the processor and system memory can significantly boost game performance, benchmark scores and even simple desktop tasks. Since almost every modern processor and memory module is overclockable to at least a slight degree, there are few reasons not to attempt it.

Important Overclocking Concepts

The following terms will be used throughout this guide, so it’s important to get a good grasp on them now.

FSB (FrontSide Bus): The data bus that carries information from the processor to the main memory and the rest of the system. A processor’s internal multiplier multiplied the FSB speed of the system = that processor’s speed in MHz or GHz.

Increasing the clock speed of the FSB (and thus the speed of the memory and the processor as well) is the most common and effective way of overclocking a modern computer.

AMD Athlon 64-based systems do not use a conventional FSB since the memory controller is built right onto the processor’s core instead of being located in the motherboard’s core logic chipset. Instead, a value called motherboard clock speed is used to determine the speed of data transfer between the processor and the memory. For the purposes of this article, FSB and motherboard clock speed are interchangeable terms.

Internal Multiplier: The ratio of a given processor’s speed (in MHz or GHz) as compared to the FSB (Frontside Bus) speed of the computer system it is installed in. A processor with an internal multiplier of 16x installed in a system with a FSB of 200MHz would run at 3.2GHz internally, since 16 x 200MHz = 3.2GHz. Most modern processors are ‘multiplier locked’ to some degree, meaning that their internal multiplier cannot be changed (or at least increased). This in turn means that increasing the FSB speed of a system is the only way to overclock the processor.

Memory Divider: Most modern Intel Pentium 4 and AMD Athlon motherboards allow a memory divider to be set. This divider allows the system memory to run slower than the actual FSB speed. By default, FSB speed and memory are usually set to a 1:1 ratio, meaning that increasing FSB speed (by overclocking) increases memory speed by the same amount. Most ‘generic’ system memory is not built for overclocking and thus may not be able to take the level of overclocking that the processor or motherboard can achieve.

The memory divider allows users to mitigate this problem by reducing the speed increase of the memory relative to that of the FSB and the processor. Setting a 5:4 memory divider would mean that memory speed increases at 4/5th the rate of the FSB, for example.

Reducing the relative speed of the memory does result in a slight decrease in performance as compared to the default 1:1 ratio between FSB and memory speed, but it may help users with generic memory achieve a higher overclock.

Stock Speed: The default or factory speed settings of computer hardware like the processor, memory and motherboard. With the processor, stock speed refers to the clock speed in MHz or GHz of the processor. With the memory, stock speed refers to the highest standard memory speed that the memory module is rated for (PC3200 DDR memory has a stock speed of 200MHz, for example). In the case of the motherboard, stock speed refers to the default speed at which the processor and memory work together, the FSB speed.

To tie this all together, say a motherboard has an Athlon XP 3000+ processor installed (stock speed 2.1GHz) which uses a FSB speed of 166MHz. A PC3200 DDR memory module (stock speed 200MHz) is installed. Since the processor requires a 166MHz FSB, the motherboard will set the memory speed to 166MHz which becomes its stock speed with the current configuration.

Core/Memory/Chipset Voltage: These three voltage values represent the amount of electrical power being fed to the respective components. When a processor, memory or motherboard is made to run faster due to overclocking, more voltage may be required in order for that component to run stably. With this in mind, voltage adjustment is one of the most important principles of overclocking.

If an overclocked computer becomes unstable, increasing one or more of these voltage settings by a very small amount (0.05V to 0.1V) can often mean the difference between an unbootable system and a stable overclocked one. That being said, it is important to make some distinctions with respect to voltage adjustments; more voltage does not necessarily mean faster speeds, rather minor increases can help improve stability. Computer circuits are designed to operate within very specific electrical ranges, and drastically increasing the electricity being supplied to a chipset will raise temperatures, and potentially damage it.

The role of the CPU, motherboard and memory in overclocking

When overclocking a computer, the processor, system memory and motherboard all have a different and important part to play in the process. The abilities and overclockability of each component has a significant effect on how successful the whole experiment will be. Let’s take a closer look at each component:

The Processor (CPU): As readers might know, two important variables govern how fast a modern processor goes. Its internal multiplier and the FSB (Front Side Bus) setting of the motherboard and memory. The FSB is the effective speed of data transfer between the processor and the main memory (it’s also the base speed that the system’s memory runs at), while the multiplier is an internal indicator of the speed of the processor.

A processor’s speed equals its multiplier (x) the FSB in MHz. Therefore, an Intel processor with a multiplier of 16 working with a FSB speed of 200MHz would run at 3.2GHz. There are two ways a processor can be made to run faster; increasing the multiplier, or increasing FSB speed.

Many modern processors have ‘multiplier locks’ which prevent users from changing the internal multiplier settings partially or completely, so increasing FSB speed tends to be the most common and effective method of overclocking.

The Memory: A system’s main memory speed determines the speed of data transfer between the processor, memory and the rest of the system. As you can imagine, this is the most important variable for computing performance in some systems. In all modern Intel and AMD systems, the FSB speed is directly linked to the speed of the memory by default, so the faster the memory is clocked, the faster the processor goes, since processor speed = (internal multiplier (x) FSB speed). This can be changed, but the 1:1 ratio between FSB and memory speed is the most desirable for overclocking.

AMD Athlon 64 systems do things a bit differently, since the memory controller is part of the CPU itself, so there is no conventional FSB carrying data from the processor to the rest of the system. Overclocking the memory still works essentially the same way, though the technology/terminology has changed. More on this in our AMD overclocking section below.

The Motherboard: Just as the motherboard is the heart of every computer system, it is also central to your overclocking efforts. The motherboard’s circuitry connects the processor and memory together and its BIOS options determine in what ways and by how much they can be overclocked. Even the highest quality memory and most overclockable processor can accomplish nothing if placed in a motherboard with no or limited overclocking options in its BIOS, or a board equipped with a new, poorly implemented or unstable core logic chipset.

Again, each component above depends on the other two when it comes to overclocking.

Hardware considerations for overclocking: Heat and cooling

The faster a computer goes, the more heat it produces. This is especially true when the voltage being fed to certain components is increased, a standard overclocking method. Excess heat in the processor, motherboard chipset or memory can cause crashes and system instability, and may be one of the limiting factors in determining the maximum overclock for a system.

The stock heatsinks included with most processors are perfectly adequate for cooling them at their stock speeds, but may not handle the additional heat generated by overclocking very well, especially if the computer chassis is not suitably ventilated. Readers may be better off investing in one of the many custom cooling solutions on the market, or at least buying some case fans to ensure an adequate flow of fresh air through their case. Take a look here for some cooling ideas. The same goes for the chipset and to a limited degree, the memory.

Hardware Considerations for Overclocking

It’s also important to keep an eye on the amount of heat the processor is putting out because of the ‘thermal throttling’ safety systems built into both AMD Athlon 64 and Intel Pentium 4 processors. If either of these CPUs gets too hot, they will slow themselves down drastically in order to keep from burning out. Users will notice this in terms of massively reduced system and benchmark speed, which should clue them into the fact that additional cooling is needed if they wish to continue overclocking. Thermal throttling should never occur in the regular use of a processor, but overclocking is NOT regular use.

To monitor the processor’s temperature, look for the ‘system health settings’ or similar entry in the BIOS screen.

Though some CPUs run hotter than others (Pentium processors tend to displace slightly more heat than their AMD siblings), all modern processors are happiest in the area between 35°C -65°C. If the processor is showing temperatures over 70°C in the BIOS, chances are that heat is going to be a limiting factor in the computer’s stability and overclocking potential. Time to consider a new heatsink and/or better case ventilation.

Power Supply Requirements

Overclocking a computer system also increases the amount of power it draws, and this may lead to system instability if its old 300Watt power supply is not up to the task. If overclocking a modern Pentium 4 or Athlon 64 system, plan on upgrading the power supply to at least 400Watts.

Spontaneous reboots while under load are usually a sign of insufficient power. When that happens, it’s definitely time to pick up a new power supply. On that note, while flashy powersupplies full of lights may be good to look at, they do not always indicate the best power quality, or power efficiency. In our experience, powersupplies which support PFC or Active PFC are the best choices.

Principals of Overclocking

Before we (finally) get to the practical part of the guide, here’s a brief word to prepare readers for the almost inevitable periods of frustration to follow. Overclocking is a very imprecise science; the processor depends on the stability of the motherboard and memory in order to achieve overclocking, and vice versa. If one of these components cannot stand the stress of overclocking, it will limit the other two also.

Heat, voltage and power supply stability are also relevant to overclocking success. Excess heat, not enough or too much voltage and unstable power can all cause the premature failure of an overclocking adventure, and it’s next to impossible to pinpoint what is causing the problem.

To avoid frustration as much as possible, be patient. Follow the directions below and take overclocking one small step at a time, so that when trouble occurs you will have a smaller set of potential issues to troubleshoot.

Preparing for Overclocking

In order to get the best out of current hardware, the most recent drivers and BIOS version for the motherboard need to be acquired. System benchmarks should be run pre-overclocking to establish a performance ‘baseline’.

Readers should visit their motherboard manufacturer’s website to obtain the most recent set of drivers for their motherboard, as well as the most recent BIOS version. For instructions on finding the current BIOS version and overwriting it with a newer edition. Newer BIOS versions may add overclocking options and stability, so this is always a good first step.

Establish a Performance Baseline

In order to get a good idea of how overclocking increases the performance of a computer, it’s important to take benchmarks and establish a performance baseline for the system.

Download, install and run the following benchmarks:

* 3Dmark2001SE
* X2: The Threat (download the demo and use the ‘run as a benchmark’ checkbox when loading it.)
* PCMark04
* Sandra 2005 (CPU, multimedia and memory benchmarks)

Record the results of each test. This will be the performance baseline, a level to measure the soon-to-be overclocked computer system against.

Readers should also consider downloading the Prime95 burn-in program, since it is extremely useful for stress testing an overclocked PC to ensure stability.

Examining BIOS Options

Since the motherboard controls what options you have for overclocking, it’s essential to take a look at the BIOS (Basic I/O System) pages of the board to examine the options available.

Reboot the computer and go to the BIOS screen by pressing the DEL key repeatedly during startup.

Note that some motherboards respond to different key commands to bring up the BIOS. Dell computers for example often rely on F2 or F8, while other manufacturers may opt for F10 to bring up the BIOS.

When the BIOS comes up on the screen you will be greeted with a blue menu with about a dozen headings. Navigate through the list by using the arrow keys, and press ‘enter’ to select a menu. When you’re done press the ESC key to exit, and either save or discard any changes you’ve made to the BIOS settings.

The first features to look for are CPU and FSB speed adjustment controls. Generally, these will be in a section of the BIOS called ‘frequency/voltage control’.

As seen in the screenshots below, this page will contain the FSB adjustment controls and voltage adjustment controls.

Increasing the FSB or ‘CPU host frequency’ or (Motherboard Clock or FSB or a host of other terms for the same thing) will increase the FSB speed of the motherboard, overclocking the processor and memory at the same time.

Increasing the voltage to the CPU core, memory or chipset will feed more power to those components to aid in stability while increasing heat.

This page may also contain memory divider options depending on the motherboard.

Everything needed to overclock the system should be on this one BIOS page.

Different motherboard’s BIOS screens will look different and use different names for the various menus and options, but the options themselves should be grouped together in one menu as seen above. If the memory timings options are not visible, try hitting CTRL+ALT+F1 when entering the BIOS.

The second BIOS page that should be identified now is the ‘PC health status’ page, or similar.

This page contains the readouts from the motherboard’s temperature monitors, allowing users to check how hot the processor is running.

In Case of Disaster

Though it’s less common with modern hardware, it’s quite possible that during this overclocking adventure the computer system may be (over)driven to a point where it simply refuses to even POST, never mind boot into Windows. If this happens, don’t panic.

To restore a system in this condition, power down the computer, unplug it and restore the BIOS to its default settings. This can be accomplished in one of two ways:

Set the BIOS (CMOS) reset jumper on the motherboard into the reset configuration and leave for 20 seconds (consult your manual for its location), then reset the jumper to the default position and power the system on again. The BIOS should now be reset to its default settings.

Or – Remove the CMOS battery (the flat silver disk) from the motherboard using a pencil or similar implement. Leave it out for a minute or two, then replace it and power on the system. The BIOS settings should have been reset, allowing the computer to boot.

Or – While turning on the PC, hold down the Insert key until the POST screen is displayed, enter into the BIOS and select default settings, save and reboot.

Memory Performance (latency vs. speed)

Memory latency is another important consideration when overclocking a computer system. The latency settings of the memory determine how long it waits for certain states to clear before performing new read or write actions. The lower the latency, the faster the memory will perform. Lower latency settings put more stress on the memory and increase the chance of error though, so many lower-end memory modules cannot handle fast latency settings, especially when overclocked. Raising the memory’s latency settings may enable a higher overclock to be achieved at the cost of some performance.

Memory latency settings can generally be found in the ‘advanced chipset features’ section of the BIOS.

source: http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=1804&page=1

The BIOS – Defined

BIOS (basic input/output system) is the program a personal computer’s CPU uses to get the computer system started when you turn it on. It also manages data flow between the computer’s operating system and attached devices such as the hard disk, video adapter, keyboard, mouse, and printer.

BIOS is an integral part of your computer and comes with it when you bring it home. In contrast, the operating system can either be preinstalled by the manufacturer or vendor or installed by a user. BIOS is a program that is made accessible to the CPU on an erasable programmable read-only memory (EPROM) chip. When you turn on your computer, the CPU passes control to the BIOS program, which is always located at the same place on EPROM. This is the POST process or “Power On Self Test.”

When BIOS starts the POST process starting your computer, it first determines whether all of the attachments are in place and operational and then it loads the operating system into your computer’s random access memory RAM from your hard disk or a floppy disk.

With BIOS, your operating system and its applications are freed from having to understand exact details, such as hardware addresses, about the attached input/output devices. When device details change, only the BIOS program needs to be changed. Sometimes this change can be made during your system setup. In any case, neither your operating system or any applications you use need to be changed.

Although BIOS is theoretically always the intermediary between the CPU and I/O device control information and data flow, in some cases, BIOS can arrange for data to flow directly to memory from devices, such as video cards, that require faster data flow to be effective.

Originally, the EPROM chips used in a PC were printed circuits that were pressed into the slot on the motherboard or soldered on. Then a few years back, the Bios manufacturers begin to use erasable programmable EPROM chips for the Bios. The reasoning was to allow for easier updates to the central core BIOS. Why is this important. In the past, you would either replace the motherboard or at least the BIOS chip if you needed to upgrade the basic system programming. Now, it can be done with a simple software upgrade that erases the existing BIOS code and then writes a new code to the BIOS EPROM chip. This process of erasing and writing new code is called “FLASHING.” The Flash Bios often allows a motherboard manufacturer to add features to a BIOS for hardware and settings they did not consider when the motherboard was manufactured, such as larger hard drives, faster CPUs, even specialty devices like ZIP drives. A Flash Bios can even be offered to correct errors in the code of the original BIOS, called BUGS.

We have an excellent explanation of all the basics of the BIOS and CMOS:

BIOS & CMOS BASICS

Where to get a Bios Flash Upgrade

Today, we have three major companies who build BIOS chips and program them: AWARD, AMI and PHOENIX. You should also know that AWARD was recently purchased by PHOENIX and they no longer sell BIOS chips to motherboard manufacturers. There are some other off brand manufacturers, but you rarely see their product on a motherboard. There also are companies that sell replacement BIOS chips, such as Mr. Bios, though the need for these replacement chips has dropped to nothing with the advent of FLASH BIOS.

The first thing you need before you begin is the FLASH upgrade software for your motherboard. An upgrade is not found at AWARD Bios, AMI Bios or Phoenix Bios’ web site. They are in the business of selling to motherboard manufacturer’s and not the general public. The Flash Upgrade for your motherboard is always supplied by the motherboard manufacturer. You can nearly always download these upgrades from their web or FTP site. If you computer was built by a company such as Micron, Gateway, IBM, Packard Bell and others… often you can find the BIOS Upgrade file on their web site.

Simply write down the version number of your Bios, this can be read above the memory test during the beginning of the POST process when you start your computer. Also, determine the model of the motherboard you are using. These two items are all you will need to find the upgrade for your motherboard on the manufacturer’s web site.

The FLASH UTILITY is nearly always included in the Flash upgrade file you will download. So, download it first and examine the contents of this file before you begin searching for a Flash Utility file.

FLASH THE BIOS
- the process -

Okay… you have downloaded the file, unzipped it and discovered it contains three files: the Flash Utility file, the upgrade data file and an instructions README file.

READ the instructions file and follow it in detail. I have seen a couple of people take for granted they know how to flash a BIOS only to find a new requirement and they are stuck with a mess. READ the INSTRUCTIONS.

Typically, you will need two floppy disks. One disk is your Boot disk with an operating system and the other contains your Flash Utility and the Upgrade file. You might be able to put all this on one floppy, but I recommend against it. When you Flash upgrade your BIOS, one option is to make a backup copy of your existing BIOS code. You will want to do this and need room for the Flash Utility file to store your old Bios code.

Next, start your computer and enter the CMOS, the area in the BIOS that contains settings you can modify. Now look through all the settings and become comfortable with them and even write down any you may need to remember, such as the settings for your hard drive and maybe any Com ports you have turned off to allow a modem to function.

Now, boot your computer with the boot floppy disk, I always use a simple operating system like MS Dos v6. You can use any that you have on hand: MS Dos, OS/2, Win95/98/NT… it is not important. The system only needs the command operator in order to run the Flash Utility file. Then, insert your Flash floppy disk. The first thing you should do is read and write down the EXACT name of the Flash Upgrade file, this is usually something like: be6_mu.bin (this is the name of the one for my ABIT BE6 motherboard). You will be required to type this in during the upgrade process and you will need it.

Just execute the Flash Utility and follow the instructions on the screen. Be sure to make a backup of your existing BIOS when prompted. The name of this backup is not important to anyone but you, so use a name that is easy for you.

I highly recommend that even if you have read the instructions for flashing your Bios that were included, you should also print them out so you have them handy for reference.

After you have finished this process, hopefully with success, all that is need to do is remove your boot disk and reboot the computer. You will need to enter the CMOS during the POST phase and make all the changes your CMOS requires in order to use the hardware on your system, such as identify your hard drive or turn off a Com port so your modem does not conflict with it.

Now, you should be done and all set.

This process sounds simple, but should it fail during the process, you could have some extreme problems. You could be left with a BIOS chip with no programming and in that case it will not be able to start the computer again. This will require either replacing the BIOS chip or the motherboard. This is not always a safe and simple operation. Be sure you are comfortable with this level of upgrading. It maybe something you wish to have a professional do for you. But, once you have done this procedure, you will understand and feel more confident should the need arise to Flash Upgrade another computer. Just never become to complacent with this procedure… it can be ruinous to your motherboard.

When you are in the middle of Flash upgrading your BIOS the last thing you need is a power outage. Imagine the power goes out right as you are writing in the new BIOS code. The system is left without a BIOS, you are then either replacing the BIOS chip or the motherboard.

One of the most important things you can do during this process is to have the computer connected to a strong UPS. You will want a UPS that can support the computer for at least 15 minutes should the power suddenly go out. Most people do not consider this and get away with it… just know that it is a risk. I always use a strong UPS and I never worry about the power going out.

source: http://freepctech.com/pc/001/006.shtml

NVIDIA SLI and ATI CrossFire have been around for quite a while now, but it’s only lately that the industry has seen a significant breakthrough and advancement in the technology.

If you don’t know what these 3D performance enhancing technologies do exactly, I’m sure you’ve at least heard of SLI and CrossFire before. In this article we will explain what SLI is and how it works, and you can read our other article on ATI CrossFire if you want to know about that too.

Back in 1998, the company 3DFX first introduced us to the SLI term with their Scan-Line Interleave technology used in their Voodoo2 range of graphics cards. NVIDIA then came along and bought 3DFX, and came up with a new idea of using the PCI-Express bus to increase 3D graphics performance. They named this new technology Scalable Link Interface (SLI).
How Does SLI Work?

NVIDIA SLI basically works like a dual core processor, it splits the load into two. With SLI you have two or more video cards connected together in a master/slave setup via what’s called an SLI bridge. When displaying 3D graphics on the screen, all the work is divided into smaller parts and sent to each of the GPUs for faster processing. When the slave GPU is done processing, it sends its output to the master GPU via the SLI bridge, and the master GPU combines everything to display the images to the monitor.

What Do I Need For SLI?

To use NVIDIA SLI in your gaming computer you must have a motherboard based on a NVIDIA chipset and you need at least two PCI-Express 16x slots. You also need two (or more) NVIDIA video cards that are SLI compatible.

You must keep in mind that the two or more video cards must have the same GPU (and preferably have the same memory and clock speed too), although they may be of different manufacturers.

If you’re buying a brand new card you can be sure that it is SLI capable, but if it’s a slightly older card you must be sure it can be used with SLI because not all of them can. So double check before buying a video card.

Different SLI Modes

NVIDIA SLI technology can be set to function in different modes.

* Split Frame Rendering (SFR) – This mode works by cutting each frame in half and sending it to each GPU for processing. Very simple.

* Alternate Frame Rendering (AFR) – Instead of breaking a frame into smaller pieces like SFR, AFR works by each GPU rendering a whole frame one at a time, one after the other.

* SLI Antialiasing(AA) – With just a single video card, you can enable antialiasing up to 4x. But with an SLI setup and multiple video cards, you can experience much more antialiasing such as 8x, 16x, 32x, and even 64x with a quad SLI system (4 video cards).

Quad NVIDIA SLI

Quad SLI is just what the name implies, four GPUs working together for amazing performance. It can be accomplished by either having 4 video cards slotted into 4 PCI-Express 16x slots, or 2 dual-GPU video cards slotted into 2 PCI-Express 16x slots.

As you can imagine, this will increase performance in your games. You will see the true power of quad SLI when you’re in high resolutions, and when you enable SLI Antialiasing mode.

source: http://www.build-gaming-computers.com/nvidia-sli.html